Many Users have the described Problem, i too. But i have solve the Problem with using the zt-he hotend of z-temp
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hello David
the problem may be the defective filament or the thermal shock that burns the filament .
sorry for my English.
Hi, like trimenthius said, you probably have some burned filament inside your hotend. Make sure your fans are working properly, you can also try rotate your model in Z-Suite to avoid burned spots.
I clean the nozzle before after and pause clean the nozzle on longer prints
What’s about fans? Are they working properly?
Can you confirm that you are removing the oozed approximate 10mm length of filament 1 or 2 seconds prior to print?
From turning the machine on just getting the machine up to temperature will cause the nozzle to ooze. and if you calibrate prior to printing (I calibrate every time as a matter of process control) as expensive as this machine may seem from a hobbyists perspective, it is still deemed a cheap machine. I still think from an engineers perspective this machine is incredible. I researched machines for six months before buying and have not looked back with regret.
Yes i clean the nozzle just a sec before it starts the print before the autocalibration starts.
i also be happy with the machine this issue is new never had this before.
Do you have burning problems with all abs? or just one particular ABS Colour/reel of filament?
just to emphasise the exact part of the process you must remove is before print as the hotend must heat up again after calibration and it is this exact point of the process that the ooze is at its largest (from my observations)
One thing that you could try is making sure the thermocouple is indeed secured correctly or indeed measuring the correct temperature. I have built a relationship with my machine over the months I have owned it. the more I know about the machine the better the prints become.
If anyone has some pointers on zit reduction on nozzle strike I would love to hear it. (only happens on multiple parts)
I scrape off the nozzle before every print… Very often the black,melted remains on the nozzle aré the causes for this…
Just print everything in black and you’ll be fine.
I find that printing with white Z-ABS always require a certain amount of babysitting.
1.) Check the print every once in a while to make sure there is no carbon build up outside the nozzle.
2.) If the nozzle seems black on the tip, push the knob down until the print pauses (takes a few seconds)
3.) Use tweezers to pull off the string from the part where the nozzle paused. Be cautious not to shift the print around.
3.) Wipe the nozzle gently with some aluminum foil (gently!) until it is clean
4.) Resume the print.
Edit: I think this applies to any light colored filament. The nozzle needs wiping every once in a while. I wipe mine before and after every print, sometimes during prints if the nozzle gets black. There is a high risk that the black carbon “scab” will fall off and embed itself in your print.
for removing the goop on the outside of the nozzle I find using a small wire brush works very nicely. Just make sure you don’t rip up any Kapton or other high temp tape that maybe insulating your heat block. That said cleaning before the start of a print really helps prevent that stuff from building up. If you notice excessive buildup you can also try pausing the print and wiping the nozzle off (VERY CAREFULLY) with a *COTTON* (no synthetics here!) rag. Just be careful since the nozzle is obviously VERY hot and will burn you!
you could try raising the temp of the nozzle(by 5°c step till burns stops), by getting hotter the filament gets more fluid, and that prevent it to attach and burn…it sounds odd for a burned spots to rais temp, but it works…conter-intuitively ))
It might be possible that the material leeks out between the screw treads of the nozzle or the heat pip
2 months later
The reason for scorch moarks is directly due to the hotend heat and inadequate fan cooling. Check your print file for the fan settings. If it is on “auto” the uncheck it and set the fan to 100% and see how your next print come out. I saw some minor scorching taking ng lace and by simply blowing air onto the print for a minute the scorce went away. You can find better fan ducts on thingiverse you can print. There is even a dual duct that requires you install another fan but it would breatly i,prove the quality of your prints.
1 month later
The problem is with Z-Suite. When preparing a print, the rafting geometry will also add debris to certain corners of your part. The burn marks are always concentrated around 1-2 particular areas, whether it’s a flat surface, or a corner. If the burn marks were randomly placed, then it would make sense there would be something wrong with the extruder, but that’s not the case. Upload the burned images too for our inspection.
Try printing in Z-HIPS, the finish quality will typically hide the burned areas.