Best DIY kit

Flores_Printing · 2016-06-05T04:41:07.000Z

I would take a look at either the rostock max v2 or the the kossel pro. Both great quality and build volume for the price, the thing is that the rostock has a massive build volume and awesome community etc, but is known to be time consuming to assemble, kossel is newer and slightly smaller, better quality mass produced parts, nicer looking imo, but is a bit more expensive due to not having to upgrade anything so i would take a look at those! For the rostock the e3d hotend would help and the vibration dampers, i would get either printer from matterhackers. If i were you i would get a delta style machine like i have said with a 1.75mm bowden tube like the ones above because although all i have a dremel idea builder, from what i’ve heard, delta’s with 1.75mm bowden are really accurate, leveling is great, print time is fast, and build volume is crazy. Well those are my 2¢ and hopefully someone else can help you aswell!

Racoon44 · 2016-06-05T04:49:36.000Z

Thank you for your reply.
I am looking at those right now. Seems that it is twice as expressive and the prusa (for a first printer I didn’t want to break the bank) but could consider it if the community agrees with you:)

SOC3D · 2016-06-05T05:03:40.000Z

http://orballoprinting.com/en/frame/8-prusa-i3-steel-frame-p3steel.html I recommend the p3steel toolson edition. Just search for toolson on thingiverse. I wouldn’t start with a 300 mm bed as it’s a non standard prusa size. I’ve been converting all of my prusas to p3steel toolson as they work great and fast.

SOC3D · 2016-06-05T05:04:34.000Z

My $.03 never start with a Delta especially not a Rostock

Racoon44 · 2016-06-05T06:22:44.000Z

Thanks for your reply.
Do you get good precision/surface finish with you printer and is there a kit available to buy? The toolson edition seems to me to be file to print the printer correct?

SOC3D · 2016-06-05T06:42:54.000Z

Yes, you would build the p3steel and then print the toolson upgrades. You can also get a cheap $200-$300 prusa kit and then upgrade it to a steel frame later.

Racoon44 · 2016-06-05T06:52:02.000Z

Thanks!

Racoon44 · 2016-06-05T06:55:30.000Z

What would be the benefit to buy a cheap prusa and then upgrade to steel frame? Cheaper than buying the steel frame kit directly?
What is your configuration regarding your motors, driver, board, hotend, and bed?

SOC3D · 2016-06-05T07:03:40.000Z

Cheap prusa would be cheap and quick. You would be up and running and printing. Then you upgrade to a steel frame later on. I have a cheap hictop, a steel frame a Rambo and toolson modifications on one. Two frames are en route and will have cheap ramps boards. I might throw the rumba on one. Each started as a different version of a cheap prusa with various upgrades. I might order a few more steel kits except I’m running out of space. With the fusion f400 and possibly a markforged coming in I would need to double my floor space.

flowalistik · 2016-06-05T10:22:37.000Z

If you’re not used to work with electronics and soldering one or two things, an Ultimaker Original + kit would be perfect. However, if you have a tight budget, I’d totally go for a Prusa i3 Steel (single frame if you will be moving it from one place to another). What I will never recommend you is to get a cheap prusa kit. Buy only quality parts (good nozzle, motors and electronics) and you will save money and time.

Racoon44 · 2016-06-05T19:28:06.000Z

Thanks, I am an electronics engineer so shouldn’t be a problem. Do you have any recommendation on a good P3steel kit?

flowalistik · 2016-06-06T11:28:54.000Z

There are lots of kits, you may find a good one on an online shop in your country. It’s not a Prusa i3 Steel, but Josef Prusa’s (the father of the Prusa i3) company just released the Prusa i3 MK2, which looks really interesting.

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html

Toy_Factory · 2016-06-06T19:15:43.000Z

Hi Pierre,

Nice to hear you want to joint the 3d community.

Any of the Prusa i3 variant are a good choice to start, the P3Steel is maybe one of the best i3 around, take a look at the toolson edition in Thingiverse as said before.

The increase of the printing size on the i3 will cause a small decrease of the quality, but nothing to worry about IMHO. In any case, if you want to have the most accurate printer, go for the short version. The Y axis is probably theweakest point of the i3 and, increase the lenght will not help. You can also increase the smooth rods and linears bearings diametre on a later stage, designing and printing your own adaptors, which will give you a more solid structure. Btw, I got the long version, but I could not compare with the short so I can not tell you if there is a decrease of quality.

Anyway, as you will see, all the printer designs are compromissing quality on behaf of price in some way or another, however, you can get very decent prints with the i3. Don’t expect to be plug and play, I start getting decent printings after 1 month of having the printer operative (I am Electronics Engineer also), and still improving…

I thing the best advise I can get to you is to avoid any chinesse stuff regarding the mechanics (linear movement), avoid chinese LM8UU and stainless steel rods. Look for a known brand like Misumi or SKF for the linear bearings and use Hard Steel Chromed smooth rods with thight tolerance, try to source locally.

As you said most of the stores selling the P3Steel frame are from Spain, I live near Barcelona, so I buyed locally the frame, sorry I cannot help you here.

If you are really looking for big printing volume and good quality you can buy the Ultimaker 2+ extended or the BCN3D Sigma, ovbiously at a cost!!

You can also build your Ultimaker 2, look for Ultimaker 2 Tribute in Thingiverse, if you use a taller chasis you can get the volume of the extended also.

My last advise, use good quality filament like colorfabb, extrudr, our any other european or USA maker, advoid chinese stuff here also, the 3d printing is a sum of a lot things that can work well or not (including the filament quality) so as many things yu can leave out of the equation the more easy will be to locate the problems. When you have your printer working well, then you can explore other cheaper filaments if you want.

So move forward, look a lot, buy with some spares, start building and ENJOY!!!

RCole · 2016-06-06T19:30:42.000Z

Serious upgrades. I like the PEI surface and the upgraded extruder. The increased bed size is nice too. Of course, auto-levelling, better heat distribution on the bed - all good improvements.

Seems every week, there is a new “top of the wish list” for me.

Racoon44 · 2016-06-07T09:09:01.000Z

Yes I have seen his new printer… maybe juste over my budget (840$ with taxes) for my first printer. I am looking at this one right now: Welcome kitprinter3d.com - BlueHost.com Seems pretty professional so hoping to get good quality parts if I get that one…

Racoon44 · 2016-06-07T09:32:14.000Z

Hi, thanks for the detailed reply. I agree with you and I now want to get the p3Steel and then later on upgrade to the toolson edition. Where did you buy your printer? As I said above, my researches have stop one this one: Welcome kitprinter3d.com - BlueHost.com Since you appeared to have a 300mm printer, imagine that you had to print a rectangle with the following dimentions: 290-190-190 how much off would you thing the part would be? Just an approximation:) Also, are you happy with you surface finishing? At the end of the day, my goal wpuld be to print a matrix to then make carbon parts. The parts would be quite big=>that is why I need a big printer and I may have to assemble two prints to make one matrix=>that is why precision is really important…

Mirth · 2016-06-07T14:15:25.000Z

Prusa i3’s have got to be the best style. They’re really good.

Anyway, a design client of mine sent me a cheap geeetech ripoff from eBay, cost £150. It worked really well out of the box and I’ve been upgrading it to even better since! Check my hub, that’s the printer I’m using and it does really well. The Marvin (though upside down in the pic) turned out really well.

Get one of those and print your own upgrades. It uses a GT2560 board so can easily be firmware upgraded.

PS if you want to upgrade to an E3D V6 hot end I’ve designed a nice little mount.

williamlora0822 · 2016-06-08T01:47:38.000Z

£150 for a ripoff? The official website now provides $249 plus free shipping and free tax, if you are in USA, AU and EU countries, they have local warehouse.

anyway, better to buy from them directly. http://www.geeetech.com/acrylic-geeetech-i3-pro-b-3d-printer-kit-p-917.html

Racoon44 · 2016-06-10T01:17:20.000Z

Indeed, customer support is a big plus for a first printer. Do you know if his new printer can be upgraded to a steel frame/toolson edition? Or is the frame bigger due to the bigger bed?

moddhayward · 2016-06-10T10:20:05.000Z

I’m waiting for the upgrade kit, which does not include a new frame, so that that remains the same. The changes are in the bed, z-axis motors, I think the extruder motor, the hot end, the auto levelling, and some rigidity improvements where frame and power supply join. No new rods or frame. Whether that means it’s compatible with all previous i3 mods I don’t know.

I’ve just looked at some images of the steel i3, and visually, compared to the old Josef Prusa model, there is more room around the bed in the original Prusa i3 than the steel version. That implies Josef’s new bed might not fit the steel frame. What is the width of the space in the steel frame?