1

Got the printer from santa. 2hrs prep, 3hrs build. however i notice the bed clearance when i use quickset home all keeps changing. surely i shouldn’t have to reset the bed every time? I had issue with nozzle (thermister had popped out), sorted, and thought all would be well but sadly no. Got 2mm up robot test print then it all went pete tong again. any help greatly appreciated.

2

the nozzle and the hot ‘cube’/assambly should not rotate

3

Q: “the bed clearance when i use quickset home all keeps changing.” By how much & is it equal at all points used to level the bed? Is it "changing by mm(s) or loosens its “weak magnetic” pull to “just enough space for it not to ‘grab’ the paper?”

  • If changing by mm’s:

If leveling points are level front to back, but not side to side, check that the X axis is level side to side. When I start having problems, that’s one of the 1st things I check. If it’s off, it’s usually that the right side is about a half mm high.

If it is level side to side, but not front to back, check:

  1. that your machine is square. Vibrations caused by the print process can move the printer by centimeters. Movement can cause the printer to be out of square, as well as, find imperfections in your tables surface (my desk is old and no longer smooth). Seems that it may be best to square your machine (measure diagonally front to back. Make adjustments via the nuts on the front that hold the front acrylic plate on the threaded rod and the nuts on the center brace), and then anchor the printer to surface that it’s sitting on. I’m going to build a new print station soon using a kitchen base cabinet bolted to the wall and a used counter top, so I’m not going to put screws into my desk. In short, square it and anchor it.
  2. the bed mounting/leveling screws. Are all 4 holes threaded (seems like a silly question to some, but to others…you know!)? Wing nuts tight(ish)?
  3. that your aluminium heat bed is flat! Most are not, from what I understand. Mine definitely is not!! The aluminium is too thin not to warp at high temps. Heck, even if you’re not using the heat your aluminium bed is probably still not completely flat, unless you’ve upgraded to a better bed. So, if you’ve not already, get a good FLAT piece of borosilacate glass 2-3 mm’s thick. WOW!! What a difference!
  4. that the Z axis lead screws are properly secured. When you get to that point in the building of your printer, note that the lead screws should not sit “bottomed-out” in the flexible coupling, and that they are as straight and plumb as possible.
  • ​If changing by millimeters:
  1. ​Make sure everything is still tight. Check the entire machine!
  2. Again, make sure that the printer is square. (refer to above)
  3. Could it be a software issue? If so, well, I shall step away from the podium.

​As far as the thermistor coming loose and popping out, check it often! It, and the heater, can become loose often…, or, not often. It seems to hold best when you tighten them when the block is heated.

If I think of, or experience, anything else that may be of help I’ll let you know!

Hope this helps,

Jeff

4

Thanks. Got so fed up with leveling I drilled out the bolt holes and use the wingnuts and lock washer. Glass arrived yesterday so when I get hone I will give it another go.

5

Thanks, ammount out appears to vary. I now set it with bed hot before printing. Got feeler gauge as paper thickness offends my sense of right. Noticed from other posts I had steppers to screwed rod hard against stepper. Sorted. Calibration print suggests going off the true as z rises (print only “cracked” at right side. Will see if stepper connection sorts this. Have glass bed now…much better adhesion. Any thoughts on why “creep” on right side?

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It didn’t, the factory had just not inserted it correctly. Sorted now thanks.