Only a small amount of maltodextrin is required, and it’s only to reduce ‘bleed’. Too much and you get these effects.
I am currently trying hydrostone and hydrocal white. I mixed with melodextrin and powder sugar but was getting mixed and funky results at various saturations using the 130 zbond profile. The ink was sitting on top of the powder. I did a spray test on the 2 ingredients and the melodextrin seemed to be the issue?? The ink I am using is a knock off eBay brand. I also just tried a quick test of hydrocal right out of the bag and didn’t get that strange hydrophobic effect.
Thanks! I already have a link in there to your site. I’ve been looking at your recipes for inspiration.
I did a clay+maltodextrin+powdered sugar print today. I can’t wait to see how it came out and how it does in the kiln.
Keep us informed - and any research is good research, even if it’s a failure.
I got some materials ready to go. Hydrostone and hydrocal white.
I am going to mix up batches of each. If I’m reading the recipe right 1000-250-250. For 5 pounds of plaster I will mix 1.25 pounds of melodextrin and 1.25 pounds of powder sugar. I also got fondant powder sugar as another option.
My first attempt with clay went pretty well.
I think I need to play with the saturation settings. The underside came out pretty distorted. It survived the kiln though.
I don’t know if it’ll work with the Hyrdostone, but with ZP-150 it is possible it ‘set’ the plaster hydraulically, by embedding the printed part in fine dry sand, then saturating it with water for about an hour.
See the bottom of my Z310+ research page for a test-to-destruction video of a hydraulically hardened part:
http://www.evillabs.net/wiki/index.php/ZCorp_Z310%2B#Hydraulic_Curing
Very interesting result on that side. We are getting our kiln set up this month in our shop. We are still having issues with Sigma-Aldrich getting that surfactant for the binder which has been frustrating. On a side note we found a box of 600+ printheads at one of our recycling centers here locally. There are about 175 black and 400+ cmy… After cleaning them they work as new! Wish we could use the cmy heads as well…
I have investigated the CMY heads - even if the firmware could be modified to accept them, their droplet size is less than half of the black heads.
so they aren’t very usable - they would need to double-pass every layer, and would wear out faster than the black heads.
if you find you are in excesss of black heads, send me an email - I’m always in the market for spares.
Hi,
Same here. I would be open to buy a big bunch
Ahh that makes sense Jason about the color heads.
Do you have a z510 also?
Once i get all this testing with powder and binders out of the way I’ll see how many I haven’t burned out lol. Still havin issues getting the surfynol sent to our business address.
I have a z310, which takes HP10 black heads.
i don’t use the sufinol mix - I typically run sake rice wine. It’s very inexpensive, and works fine for my monocolor prints.
Quick question,
Where did you get the Surfynol and what type, looks like it comes in different numerical labeling.
Does anyone know of a “general , all around” binder currently being sold that works with most of the older powders? Running a Z400 but I can remember what the powder is.
Thanks,
-Pat
I use Sake as the binder for my ZP-150 in my Z310+
works just fine fine out of the bottle.
I have been trying to get it from sigma aaldrich but they are very frustrating to attempt to order from. They have denied my order because they review your info before sending out. They will not send to a residential address. They did not like my usage explanation when I said it was for 3D printing ink r&d
what brand of sake are you using
Whatever is cheapest and in the biggest jug.
and is unflavored!
Having trouble getting the serial port recognized in Zprint software with the z400. Using usb to serial cable (RS-232 DB9). Set to COM1,
anyone else have problem getting it set up first time. Guy I bought the printer from said it was a pain in the ass but doesn’t remember what he had to do to get it working.
PS Got the Sake so we’ll see how that works.
For those hawing hydroperm out of the bag on their 510 what profile, shell and core saturation, and bleed compensations are you using?
Does anyone know a good source for the binder filters?
also here is a nice print on experimental binder and powder.
