ebam
August 3, 2016, 12:24pm
1
Hi, my ‘pyrex’ plate has finally arrived and fits perfectly. I’ve printed the Z-axis device that trips the switch at the correct height however I am now wondering how is best to secure the glass to the print bed? I have got some bulldog clips but as it is a CTC Bizer Dual printer I am unsure where to put the clips so that the other nozzle doesn’t hit them. Any suggestions would be great or any other techniques for securing it.
202
SOC3D
August 3, 2016, 6:12pm
2
Aquanet works well for a temporary bond. Just spray the bed, stick the glass on it, wait a few hours then heat it up. Remove with rubbing alcohol. Most people use double sided thermal tape or a high w/mk rated thermal pad. Frozen CPU sells some good ones.
cobnut
August 4, 2016, 10:28am
3
Do you have any bolts/fixings at the edge of the heated bed? For the FF Creator Pro, it’s relatively easy to use two corner bolts for the bed as fixings for two printed “corner pieces” to hold the glass in place, maybe you could do something similar.
In the past (with a Velleman K8200) I simply used high temperature tape wrapped over the edges and under the bed. You might lose a tiny bit of build area, but how important that is depends upon what you print.
Personally I’m reluctant to use any methods that end up with the glass being too “permanently” fixed to the bed. I’d rather have easy removal/replacement, not only in case of breakage but also as this would allow one of the best advantages of glass beds, the ability to swap out when under pressure to print multiple items.
ebam
August 4, 2016, 12:58pm
4
By high temperature tape do you mean a bit of Kapton? I’ve ordered another 2 glass plates so I can swap out for different purposes etc and would rather not mess with the kapton film that is on the original bed to access the screws and bolts that are in the corners.
158
ebam
August 4, 2016, 2:46pm
5
Another question to add to the one already asked here…
Do I need to up my temps from printing and if so what is the max my printer will support? (CTC BIZER DUAL)
356
Not your hotend temp. You might find you need to increase the HBP temperature a bit, but probably not.
IIRC, your HBP will go to 120 degrees set temp. If you’ve not replaced your thermistor, it probably won’t actually get that hot.
ebam
August 4, 2016, 2:54pm
7
oh eeer ok…seems mine has been going up to 135 degrees or at least thats what the printer display had been saying and makebot… Also I have found ABS wil not stick to the glass and always fails to actual complete a print where as PLA is perfect now…
on another not I have had some forum replies to my email yet when I check on the forum they are not there!!! Anyone know why?
379
TBH i am probably wrong. There’s a discrepancy between what the Sailfish firmware does and what GPX does (which most slicers that aren’t makerware use) which results in the HBP never going higher than 120.
Are you trying to get ABS to stick to plain glass? I’ve never managed that. I use ABS juice (a small bottle of acetone with some bits of ABS dissolved in it, wipe a little on the glass before you preheat). It leaves a film behind that will help your print to stick.
Even with ABS juice you might find small parts come unstuck. Print something with a decent sized base until you’ve got the hang of it, or, you could use a raft (but i dislike rafts).
