Wanhao Duplicator 4s w/ Simplify3d in-fill hairs

MrFex · 2015-07-08T20:45:31.000Z

Hi -

I’m just starting and I have switches over to a BuildTak today. I have printed some PLA and I just switched to ABS. I printed a small box with 20% infill and I noticed that the infill layers weren’t flat. After the nozzle passed it showed hairs standing up. I have heated the bed to 100c and subsequent wipes did smooth it out. However I worry that this is not the optimal configuration and I will cause deformation when going higher.

This was my second attempt. I releveled the bed with a business card instead of a sheet of paper and it didn’t help. What should I do to proceed? Relevel higher?

Thanks for all the help, I have been learning a lot from you guys.

will_kostelecky · 2015-07-09T09:40:51.000Z

I also use Simplify3D with my D4S and I documented the calibration settings that I currently use here. Not sure if you use 2.2, in which case you can download the profile, or if you use 3.0 in which case you can take what you need from the images. I would think that hairs are either a sign that you are printing too fast, too hot, or you are over extruding.

Will

ScottObjectForm · 2015-07-09T09:52:05.000Z

Hey Mr Flex… What was the material you used? In most cases this type of thing is settings based but the settings will depend on the material being used.

Cheer

Scott

Tiago_Carita · 2015-07-09T09:54:13.000Z

A business card is too thick you should use a piece of paper.
Sometimes i have those type of artifacts on my first and second layer but they soon disappear,

I started switching the bed to 70 in ABS because it shows less warping on the base of the piece.

I use Acetone Pure with bits of diluted ABS plastic to coat the base where I’m printing and never ever had any more troubles

ScottObjectForm · 2015-07-09T10:28:08.000Z

Yes, I would agree with that. Use a standard piece of paper.

We use 3DLac (http://www.3dlac.be/ which can be purchased in the UK here: http://www.technologyoutlet.co.uk/, this allows us to reduce the HBP (heated bed platform) down to 60C. This saves soooo much time waiting for it to get to 110C and, of course, less heat required, less electricity used… etc etc.

Slurry (Acetone and ABS mix) is good, use very sparingly. BUT, note Acetone is toxic and dangerous. Always read about what it is you are using. Acetone melts ABS but is also highly flammable. We have and still do use this on occasion.

Scott

Georgeh1ll · 2015-07-09T17:48:54.000Z

I would use a piece of paper to level it and make sure that the filament is feeding freely with no tension on the spool.

rspehr · 2015-07-11T14:54:39.000Z

Try bumping the bed temp up to 110 degree C. This helped solve some of the issues I had.

MrFex · 2015-07-13T10:57:57.000Z

Thankl you so much for this. One of the first thing I ended up doing was to replace the PLA filament since this was shipped with the printer. I noticed that the new PLA prints much better out of the box and doesn’t drip, goo and slime

My guess is: low quality PLA or perhaps difficult PLA (natural clear white type). Things a running a lot smoother now.

Anyway, that page with Simplify settings for the Wanhao is great, I followed them all and the results are wicked. I’ll have to do some more testing before and I determine the ideal settings but man, thanks!

First up, extrusion rate testing

Second, temp testing

MrFex · 2015-07-13T10:58:38.000Z

Since the new PLA i have been noticing a lot of warping and I noticed that a heated bed does help. Thanks for the suggestion.

MrFex · 2015-07-13T11:00:21.000Z

Great advice. It’s unreal how close that nozzle can be without blocking. I’m getting good first layer squish now and the adhesion is a lot better. I still have warping issues but this made a huge difference. No more blobby nozzle’s, all I need to cure now is hayfever.

MrFex · 2015-07-13T11:01:10.000Z

Lolz, sorry for not metioning this. Newbie.

I was using clear white PLA natural from Wanhao (shipped with printer). At the moment I am using black 3d prima PLA filement.