Yeah unfortunately a heatbed on it’s own doesn’t help with getting the print to stick. It only helps to keep it stuck and to avoid warping by keeping heat in the print while it’s still printing. Nothing will stick to glass without treatment as far as I know.
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ok i will try with hairspray first bevor buying kapton tape
After installing the painter’s tape, try rubbing it down with IPA. I don’t need a bed temp that high. 40-50c usually does it. This also depends on just how good your first layer goes down…
Yeah…I bought a couple of similar beds for my D5 and D5S. I bought mine through makergeeks, and they recommended using magnets to hold it to the bed.
Just slapping on magnets won’t work, since the part of the back of the pad where the wiring enters is thicker than the rest of it and the heated bed will be on a slant that is very difficult to level.
After you’ve taken ten minutes to design a stand-off to print to raise the magnet base high enough to level the glass and leave room for the cable, you discover (or re-discover) 5th grade science and the fact that while the magnetic forces will keep the plate “attached” to the bed and keep it from rising up, they will do nothing to keep it from sliding as you print. The magnets also take away about 1/4-1/3 of your usable print area because of the bed overhang.
I’ve been through several iterations of a design (starting with the D5S) that raises and horizontally/vertically stabilizes the heated bed. It does not use magnets, so you don’t loose X/Y print area. You lose a little Z, but you will no matter how you attach it. I need to finish it off and post it on thingiverse, but I haven’t had time. 
The base plate of the D5 and D5S are slightly different, so the design isn’t the same. my guess is that the plate on the 5S mini will be exactly like the D5S’s, so the design (four parts and clips printed in either PLA or PET) should on it.
Another modification that I made to both printers was to print grommets for the holes where the plates are connected, which reduces X/Y vibration of the plate when printing large objects. I was printing models of a 105mm howitzer round, and found that about 2/3 of the way up the print the vibration that wasn’t noticeable on small parts starts to affect the print. The grommets and the replacement of the unsupported rails with supported ones has eliminated nearly all vibration. The mini doesn’t need supported rails, but the D5/D5S work a lot better with them.
And of course you use hair spray. (heated bed or not!)
No worries mate, glad to help. Give me an upvote if you like!
I’ve found that if the hair spray is not dry the print will sometimes slide. You’d have to be really good with timing to get it to dry as the first layer is printing.
I do a lot of printing remotely (octoprint), so I clean and spray the bed when the print is removed. One of my printers is in one of the data centers on the CV-10 (Yorktown), and I frequently start a run Sunday evening from home. Unfortunately, right now it is about 50F in the room because of the cold front. Can’t turn the heat on, so in the winter I can only print on days when it 65-70 outside.
10 months later
HI
i got the heated bed recently its a right pain to set it up to avoid losing print area, have you managed to do it?
can’t believe no one else moans about how rubbish it is that you lose print are as the magnet have to attach to the metal plate below which is much smaller than the lexan print bed it comes with.
in the end i have made a new plate with some bolts in but now that seems to flex too much so when you start to print, it flexes down so the first layers are touching the glass is useless. As i made it out of thicker metal sheet but it was twice the weight so the z axis kept slipping so had to cut out soo many bits to make it lighter it is now too flexy to use. Back to the drawing board.
has anyone found a decent solution to this heated bed? please let me know. Thanks