UM2 failing -any advice?

XYZWorkshop · 2016-05-19T09:56:27.000Z

How old is your printer? Can you not contact the person you bought it from? Is it still within its 12 months warranty.

i suspect you have a faulty board.

MetaCAD · 2016-05-19T09:57:41.000Z

SEND IT TO ULTIMAKER GB MATE. GREAT GUYS THEY ARE BASED IN CHORLEY LANCS

steven_10 · 2016-05-19T10:01:23.000Z

ouch! looks like a nasty one to me! could the main ultimaker board be over heating? causing a slightly dodgy solder joint to fail/short causing the freeze out? are you able to run the printer with an addition fan blowing across the board?

Either way, sounds like a new main board may be required.

MetaCAD · 2016-05-19T10:01:59.000Z

Contact

d.abram@ultimaker.com

Remember ultimaker is community driven so they will help anyway they can.

Clarity · 2016-05-19T10:04:33.000Z

Hi,

I had a problem like this, decreasing Z-motor current to 1200 solved it. If it’s already 1200, try decreasing by 50 and see if the problem persists.

But there’s a high chance that it’s the board. Try using some cooling maybe… But better contact support as well

Cheers

Nicolinux · 2016-05-19T10:08:20.000Z

Hey Greg,

Where did you post it on the UM2 forum? I am pretty active there and I didn’t see your post.

As you said, it could be anything. I’d start with the easy stuff, then advance to harder to test/fix areas.

Replace the power cable from the power brick and/or switch the power outlet. Then reset the printer to factory settings (Menu -> Advanced).

If you have the possibility, connect the UM2 to a computer and use Printerface (also called Printrun) to monitor the output from the printer. Error messages should appear there. If you run OctoPrint - even better. Connect to the printer and switch to the “Terminal” tab and check the output.

Next, open the cover at the bottom of the printer (two screws beneath the heated bed on the bottom) and check for obvious loose connections or half inserted connectors.

3DavidN · 2016-05-19T10:10:16.000Z

A few ideas from my site.

1) add new printer in Cura and use defaults

2) set z-hop to 0.075

3) do not go to wild on retraction length… I go no further 4.5 else I got that same experience where filament drops out to early especially icw high z-hop

reibuehl · 2016-05-19T10:13:33.000Z

Your error number 2 is discussed here: Tinker_16.01 problem - 3D Printing Forum

gregh · 2016-05-19T10:16:50.000Z

Hi,

Thanks for the response. Maybe I am doiung something wrong on that forum!

Community Forum Hardware Troubleshooting & Maintenance

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21084-possible-motherboard-breakdown

Thanks,

Greg

gregh · 2016-05-19T10:21:13.000Z

Thanks, I have spoken to Daniel before, both by email and at the 3D Printshow London :). Good guy. I was approaching the community first though. So far I am gathering some great responses here…not sure why my UMForum post went unnoticed.

Thanks.

Nicolinux · 2016-05-19T10:26:02.000Z

There are replies now. So let’s continue there.

gregh · 2016-05-19T10:28:17.000Z

Thanks, these seem like good ideas. Not sure yet how to decrease the current, but I have definitely seen something about this before -possibly a post of yours, so I’m sure that won’t be difficult to find.

Thanks!

gregh · 2016-05-19T10:32:08.000Z

Thanks for the link. Possibly unrelated to the major issue I guess.

gregh · 2016-05-19T10:38:41.000Z

Thanks - and thank you for the rest of your earlier reply -I didn’t respond about that before but I now have several things to try.

Cheers,

Greg

ProtoShape · 2016-05-19T10:45:42.000Z

Hi Greg,

It definitely looks like a malfunction of your electronics. I would suggest to try and print over USB, rather than using the SD card slot. You can print over USB by changing this settings in Cura: Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life If you then connect the printer via the USB cable, the “save to sd card” button in Cura will change to a “print over usb” button.

I don’t think the board or steppers are overheating, like numerous people are saying. If that would be the case you’d see shifted layers, rather than a complete crash of the printer. Of course it’s possible you’re experiencing multiple issues at the same time.

If you do decide to replace the electronics, I’ve got a spare electronics board which I’m willing to sell for a reasonable price

gregh · 2016-05-19T10:48:43.000Z

This is the younger of my 2 printers. I bought it second hand, but it was only 2 months old and had less than 200 hours on it at the time. That was a few month ago. It has been working fine since then, and would theoretically still be in warranty but I don’t have a proof of purchase.

designeering · 2016-05-19T11:13:40.000Z

Raise a support ticket with Ultimaker. Which country are you based?

Alexandre_16 · 2016-05-19T11:22:26.000Z

My original ultimaker2 board broke after a year and a half, the Ultimaker price for a new board was about 300€.

I got this Chinese one for around 100€, its been working fine for over a year now. I could have got 3 for the price of the Ultimaker one.

http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-accessories-Ultimaker-v2-1-1-Dashboard-Ultimaker-2-generation-motherboard-for-3D-printers/2024214319.html

Best

Alexandre

gregh · 2016-05-19T11:40:01.000Z

I’m in the UK. I will do that.

Thanks

Clarity · 2016-05-19T11:53:14.000Z

It should be easy, just find menu called “motion settings” in advanced settings of the printer itself. If I remember right