Top of Prints Not Filling Completely

[saddlepiggy]

Hello, I have just started 3d printing and have noticed my prints not working quite right. I am using the CTC 3D (black version) printer with default firmware. Here are some pictures of my print:

[saddlepiggy]

And the second one:

[MB3D]

You need to use a higher infill percentage or more top layers (or both). Your problem is, that the distance from one line of infill to the next is too big for the top layers to bridge over completely, this means, that the “bridging” part of the top layer collapses under its own load and partially falls down into the infill. With each top layer printed these holes will get smaller and at one point they’ll close completely. Layer Heights of 0,1-0,2 mm are the best for bridging. On average your layer height should be 0,3-0,5 times your nozzle size. More cooling or changing the printing speed can help too. Experiment a bit with test cubes or other small and cheap prints to get your settings right, BEFORE starting a large print that takes 48h to complete. You’d want to throw away a 30x30x10mm test cuboid instead of a giant print. Good luck! Cheers, Marius Breuer

[printbot3d]

May be you need calibrate the heating bed, under the bed exist 4 knobs, you need take the option: “utilities”, next “level plate” and fron rhis option the bed move to close to extruder, in this moment you can move the knobs to put too close the bed in the extruder. Check these gap whit a sheet of paper, move the paper whit a little scratch. good luck friend Cheers!!

[INVENTion]

Provide the settings you are using. Speeds, layer height, infill % and extruder and or bed temperatures. It looks like you have a print settings issue.

[adamcooks]

Every one of those suggestions is valid and I would follow all of it. I think there may be more then one issue here. I also see a lack of cooling. This looks like pla. The ctc does not come with a filament cooling fan, nor does it have the necessary hardware for a gcode enabled fan. I would suggest pointing a house fan at the side of your printer. Or you can solder the mosfet on and use the slicer control fan.

[saddlepiggy]

It is PLA, and I have calibrated everything that I found needs to be calibrated. I used .1mm layer thickness, non heated cooling bed (im using the hairspray tactic to keep it sticking), 120c or lower nozzle(I think),10% infill, and (don’t quote me on this) 90mm per second (or minute whichever one it is) and 120mm on acceleration. Nozzle diameter is .4mm.

P.S. I’m having trouble upgrading to Sailfish. I tried MANY times to click the buttons at the same time to upload it, and I did, but it wouldn’t upload. I’m using RepG.

Thanks for the help -saddlepiggy

[INVENTion]

I assume you are using version 7.5? Anyways go to the general settings or similar and look for the acceleration settings and turn them on.

Before you start, heat up the nozzle you’ll use with the settings and when the right temp has been reach (set it up to 230 on the settings,see below for temp recommendations) then push filament through the extruder and you you see the filament extruding. If you have trouble doing that (it should just take very little pressure from your fingers) the you have to make sure your extruder is clean and not clogged.

After that, start printing at a 30/50 speed instead of the 90/120 you already have; you can try higher speeds later. Use layers .2mm thick; best overall setting. The default infill in your mind must be 20% anything else you’ll learn to use when you’ll need to. The number of shell or out layers I recommend 3 but if it is a test print, 2 is fine. No raft but use support. The temp should be 230 but because you don’t have cooling or FET to control it you could print at 220 or 210.Start there.

About the bed, the best I’ve found for PLA is a sheet of the same plexiglass or acrylic sheet I’ve used for my printer covers. Just sanded with 80 grit until you can’t see through anymore, the point is the more scratched the better the adhesion. Just play with it slowly. The more you use it the more sticky it becomes, use some beewax or any wax once in a while to make it pop off again. The first prints with the wax might scare you but it will work like a charm after a few prints.

Cheers and Good luck!

[INVENTion]

Forgot to tell try to use Makerware from makerbot, or if you can invest some $$ get Simply3D ($140) It will simplify your life…

[saddlepiggy]

I use Makerware

EDIT: I use Makerware for slicing, and RepG for new firmware. Plus Netfabb to break split stuff.

[INVENTion]

Check out the bed set up. I am using the four outer screws no clips.

[adamcooks]

Look for makerware version 2.4. Last update for our printers, before the bloated desktop version

[saddlepiggy]

What should I do about the hair spray… I’d rather not light my printer on fire from a heated bed.

[INVENTion]

I’ve tried to make it work, such an easy solution, right. But you see what it does to your printer, the axels, etc. Elmer blue stick works really good for small prints as long as you are printing on glass, with clips, the best is at least 2.5mm thick but I’ve found some 2.7mm that works even better, it does not warp. And the best so far for sticking is, and I don’t want to say it because it is already expensive to buy, the cubestick. Although I have a new idea that I need to try that will make it even easier to print. I’ll keep you inform if you are interested.

[saddlepiggy]

But what do I do about getting the hair spray off? And after that, I should try Elmer Blue Stick with glass? Will it work with the stock build plate?

P.S. I would like to be informed about your new idea

[adamcooks]

It’s not just any hairspray, it’s Aquanet or garnier fructis super extra hold. remove the glass plate, wash in the sink to get the excess off. Don’t use binder clips. .5mm silicone pads available on Amazon as gino pads are the best solution for keeping the glass surface from sliding around. Glass is hard and flat, even the dollar store 8x9 picture frames. Will withstand a nozzle drag or two. Binder clips with reintroduce and warp in the build plate, silicone will allow the glass to securely float. Downside is they break occasionally, but they’re only a few dollars and, in my experience, break in one or two large pieces. Don’t use tempered, that’s a disaster waiting to happen. Borosilicate is an expensive option for glass, but is prone to chipping.