Hi, I’ve recently purchased a Nobel 1.0 SLA printer which is my first SLA printer that I’ve owned. After looking through pictures for slicing SLA prints, I’ve noticed that a lot of parts are printed on top of a load of support material whereas the same parts could easily be printed without any support on FDM. Is this something that I just need to get used to doing and if so, does this mean my customers should be expecting to pay a lot more for support material through 3D hubs compared to FDM?
Thanks a lot
Ben
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You will have to forget a lot of what you know when moving to SLA from FDM. With FDM, a flat surface parallel to the build plate is ideal for obvious reasons but that isn’t the case for most SLA machines. When you cure each layer, it gets stuck to the bottom of the vat. Most machines, including the nobel, use a method of lifting with a tilt to peel the print off the VAT after each layer cures. If you have a large flat surface anywhere in the print, the bond to the vat can easily overcome the strength of the part and break or detach from the plate, leaving part or all of the print still stuck to the vat. That’s why you see SLA parts printed with a slanted orientation on “pin cushion” type of support. Also, the material sticks to the build plate in a way that usually makes it very difficult to remove in one piece without breaking. It’s easier if the part is suspended on supports. Then you just cut the supports to remove the part and can scrape off what’s still stuck to the plate.
6 Likes
Enza3D
September 20, 2016, 8:17pm
3
Just following up what @MindFuLL already said - another important reason SLA parts are printed at an angle is to allow resin to drain from a hollow part. If a part is printed hollow (common because it saves resin and solid parts are not necessary for models) and liquid resin is allowed to pool into it, you can end up with cupping, or even parts exploding, when the liquid resin is trapped inside the part. Printing at an angle with clever orientation allows you to drain out excess resin without multiple drain holes ( I can usually get away with one small drain hole per part).
I do occasionally print flat to the build plate (I have a Form 2, which is very forgiving of this) if the part cross sections are very small. For example, the planetary gear on my Hub page was printed flat to the build-plate with no issue and so was a Voronoi style Squirtle but these are not the norm. Printing flat to the build-plate is also more abusive to resin vats; printing at an angle reduces the amount of time the laser shines through a particular section of the vat so the vats last longer. Once you get to know your machine, you may be able to print some models flat to the plate.
4 Likes
Perry_1
September 20, 2016, 8:34pm
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Interesting. Willing to post or point to a few pics?
Enza3D
September 20, 2016, 8:38pm
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@Perry_1 ,
I’m going to run a few prints this evening - anything in particular that you’d like to see?
1 Like
Enza3D
September 20, 2016, 8:50pm
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Thank you! Same to you, @MindFuLL
Thanks a lot @MindFuLL and @Enza3D , you’ve helped me out a lot!
Ben
2 Likes
Perry_1
September 20, 2016, 11:31pm
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Yes, thanks. A picture of the software showing supports, and the angle. That would be great!!
Enza3D
September 21, 2016, 1:22am
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Aside from a questionable model (there’s a very high chance those wings fail), this is more or less the process of why we angle and support so much more with SLA printing .
One other thing angling allows you to do @3DFolkes is print much bigger then you could if the model is flat to the build plate. I was able to go from 0.65 maximum scaling flat to the plate, to a full size model (1.00 scaling) by angling the model (see the album for details).
2 Likes
Perry_1
September 21, 2016, 1:36pm
11
Wow, thanks so much. I really, really appreciate those pictures. Very informative.
So, you need to make sure all the parts are connected, or some parts will break off or just end up in the vat.
Do you add a subsequent cost for the support, or is it figured into your pricing? I assume you add it later, so you can price it determined on how much is needed.
Well done.
1 Like
Enza3D
September 21, 2016, 1:42pm
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@Perry_1 ,
Regarding support, I unfortunately have to add it as an additional cost to each order. There’s no real way to include it in the pricing, because depending on the part’s geometry, big parts can need very little support whereas small parts can need very large amount of support. It’s not uncommon for the volume of support material needed to exceed the volume of the actual part, especially with smaller or detailed models, and there’s just no way to account for that ahead of time.
No problem, I’m the images were helpful!
1 Like
Hi @MindFuLL ,
I’ve taken your advice and started using meshmixer for orientation and support and the results are coming out much better. One thing I was curious about is how much adjustment is needed from the default support settings as I’ve just printed a long strip and unfortunately it detached from the support. Would this just be a case of increasing the tip diameter or did you play with any of the other settings?
Thanks again!
Are you using the SLA/DLP preset? If not this is a good place to start. Slightly increasing the tip diameter can definitely help but would obviously result in larger support marks. Slightly tweaking the orientation or angle of the supports can make a difference as well. You want to be mindful of the side being “peeled” first. This is where there is the most danger of separation.
I play with ALL settings wherever I find them.
-Jesse
