Suggestions?? FolgerTech FT-5 vs Original Prusa i3 MK2

[romogo17]

Hi, I’ve been wanting to buy a 3D printer for a while so a time ago I started researching what 3D printer should I buy

I want it to be overall functional, reliable, able to make great prints out of the box (or after assembly and configuration). I would like it to be able to print at 0.05mm layers for some detailed prints once in awhile and be able to print nylon

I like the FT-5 because it has a great build volume, the print moves on the Z axis and comes with linear bearings that I’ve read make the print very stable. Also the price is great for what the printer is able to do.

On the other hand I’ve read some people having trouble with the assembly because the kit is missing parts sometimes, or the wiring instructions aren’t as clear or some people has questioned the parts quality. However this opinions are some months old and I wonder if the kit/instructions have improved by now. I’m interested in this kit as long as it does not represent a hassle since I have to deal with international shipping and import taxes

On the other hand I’ve read the Prusa i3 MK2 is a remarkable printer, very reliable, made of quality parts with a great support from the manufacturer. I don’t like that the printer doesn’t move on the Z axis but I don’t think this should be a deal breaker.

What printer do you recommend me to buy? Do you have any other suggestion or insights in that matter? My preferred budget is around $650 but I could invest a bit more if necessary.

Thanks,

[JMecky]

I love the FT-5. It prints big and accurate. I upgraded mine with an E3D volcano, so it can print with the .8 mm nozz. TPU Tackle Box being printed - YouTube I also have a hictop prusa i3, and i prefer the FT-5.

[wirlybird]

I have both. If you have never built or used a printer I think taking into consideration your wants I would go with the Prusa MK2s. It is a challenging build but well documented and lots of support.
I wouldn’t get to wrapped up in the .05 layer deal. It will take a lot of practice and tuning to be able to do and really mostly will just make a print longer.

I am building the FT-5 right now and have to say the instructions are not the best. They need work but I don’t see where they have an on-line area to submit issues or changes as Prusa does. the on-line build instructions from Prusa which has user comments are very good.
The support from some FT-5 groups is pretty good. There are the usual factions that will pounce on you if you complain about missing parts etc.!

I think the FT-5 is going to be a good printer especially considering print volume and cost but it is much “rougher” around the edges as a kit.

The 2 main things I think it has going against it for you are international, especially if you need replacement parts etc. and build difficulty with little to no experience.

I don’t think you will be disappointed in the MK2s. Then down the road a bit the FT-5 may be a great second printer.

Just my thoughts having both printers and not knocking either. Feel free to ask anything about them.

[Iasonn]

It’s a bit of apples to oranges.

the ft-5 (I have one) is a kit in as many parts as possible, you will need to clean the tape off the parts and then build, wire, align and level the bed manually

the mk2 is more user friendly for assembly and has auto bed mesh leveling a real hot end, and a pei bed.

You you will be printing in shorter time and better quality in general on the mk2

If you like tinker toys and erector sets, and soldering, the Ft-5 pays off with a larger build volume and lower price, so you could add pei and a new hotbed install it all yourself of course

if you want to build it to save money but want more plug n play type printing, the mk2 is for you

[cobnut]

Just one thing to add - the Prusa i3 is now being sold as the Mk2S, with upgraded bearings and rods, so anything you’ve read about the bearings being sub-standard probably doesn’t apply (can’t be certain yet as I’ve yet to upgrade my Mk2, the kit’s sitting next to it…)

As @wirlybird says, 50 micron layer heights aren’t that important, the difference between 100 and 50 microns isn’t that great and for some prints it’s completely pointless even trying to get 50 microns.

Why do you prefer the bed to move in Z rather than the nozzle assembly?

[romogo17]

Hi,

Thanks for your thoughts on the printers.

What kinds of filaments have you used with the MK2? Do you have any experience printing nylon?

Thanks in advance,

[romogo17]

Thanks for your opinion. Considering others -as well- I think I might go with the Mk2S.

I prefer it because the print itself isn’t moving as much. Just slowly down the Z axis. And I’ve read this helps for stability, and sometimes speed in the prints. But as I said, I don’t think this could be a dealbreaker as a good calibrated printer will perform as good with the nozzle assembly Z movement

Thanks,

[cobnut]

I’ve never really been bothered by the movement of the print bed, to be honest, if the print bed moving is going to cause problems in printing (because the model is unstable, e.g. tall thin structures) you’re just as likely to have problems from where the nozzle has friction against the model when printing. The Mk2 did have quite a noticeable “play” in the bed (although it never seemed to really affect the prints), but the Mk2S upgrade is supposed to have solved that.

Speed is something that’s going to be a compromise; although it may sound nice to have a printer that can chuck models out as fast as you can catch them, at this level of printer you’re going to have to accept that lower speeds are likely to produce better prints, regardless of the design (and depending upon the nature of the model). And again, fast movement of a XYZ extruder assembly is just as likely to produce a problem as fast movement of a bed - the masses involved are probably comparable, and bear in mind the Prusa bed only moves on one axis.

[wirlybird]

I don’t think you will find the bed moving in the Y an issue on the Prusa. Also just manage speeds ok and it is really a non issue. Now, if you get into something like the FT-5 and a very tall skinny object the bed moving in and direction other than Z very well could be more of a concern.

[wirlybird]

I only run PLA and PETG on my MK2 for now. I have other machines that are enclosed and run ABS fine so no need yet.

[SirLancelot]

I have one FT Pi3 and two FT-5s. FT-5 is by far my favorite although the Pi3 is still a good work horse and is my printer of choice for ABS until I upgrade my FT-5 heat beds and enclose them. The FT-5 is definitely a more complicated and difficult build so for a beginner I would suggest a Pi3. It’s how I started. You’re right though, the build surface moving in the Y axis can lead to quality issues both with very small and vary large parts. That’s mostly an issue with warping and interference with the nozzle though which can sometimes be corrected using a z-hop setting. I also tend to get some wavy texture in my Pi3 extrusion which makes it hard to get a nice smooth surface. I’ve seen this issue in other parts printed with a Pi3 as well so I don’t know if it’s a function of the design or maybe I just haven’t tuned my steppers properly. My FT-5s print super smooth.

[romogo17]

Did you encounter any issue while building any of your FT-5?

Like missing parts or over-complicated steps?

Would you say the FT-5 has a better print quality (to justify the hassle of assembling it)?

Thanks for your insights,

[SirLancelot]

I didn’t have any issues with any of the parts. If you can solder, then you shouldn’t have any problems. The manual does get confusing at times, but the FolgerTech Facebook group is very active and helpful. I think the FT-5 has better print quality and is easier to upgrade than the Pi3.