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May 2017

It is stuck, sometimes becoming part of the piece, others quite stuck so I had to use a knife, and others can be removed easily. I’ve seen the head moving them along when hitting them back once it has to print again on that area, since the residue is typically taller than the height of the layer.

I think that I’ll order some new PLA, since I got rid of this one anyway, and see what happens. If the problem persists, perhaps it’s an excess of PLA getting accumulated at the nozzle and I need to reduce the flow to avoid it. Right now, I’m experimenting with ABS (which, man, it’s really difficult with all the warping / curling considerations), but given precisely to its difficulty I think I’ll switch to PLA again soon.

I mentioned it at the original message:

I’m printing this PLA at 200C with the hot bed at 60C.

I recommend bed temperature 50 - 55 for PLA and print temp need test with temperature test tower but I printing on 210 - 215.

Pla = less than 200°, also no bed required. Thats your issue. Go lower temps

That’s not nessasarily true. PLA can be run between 190-210. Also bed heating helps with adhesion, no point in turning it off completely.

First. Temperatures are just reference. it may change, Second. PLA doesnt need bed like many materials. it may help, true, but its NOT necesary

now going a bit deeper. All materials are diferent, even the same brand material have diferent temperature ranges, specially if are diferent colour even with same material. And somthing else you have to keep in mind. Your printer 190º maybe is 192 in real life, or 188. thats not 100% exact. if you have a printer that calculate 200º at 205 and you dont know it and u put 210 cause “pla can 210”, you may printing at 215? 220?. result of this?..

Temperature ranges are just reference and orientative, you have to check and do few tests and same material may will need little tweaks in other printers.

hope its good explained. im spanish and actually really sick to think/translate well