Skip to main content
damn power supply crapped out, new one is supposed to be here today.
Your PSU shouldn’t just crap out!
115 volts in, no led indicators, and no dc out?
yes. Or, calculate the acceleration for the travel distances of the object. High acceleration and feed rates can cause missed steps
Might be a short. Leave it unplugged for about an hour or two, then plug it back it. Usually when power supplies die, they will stay on for about an hour or so, then randomly shut off.
I will have to check the old one, I have not touched the printer since i orderded the new supply. Finally got it yesterday, hooked it up plugged it in, set my extruder temp, and bed temp and notice the temps are not going anywhere. Look at the supply and see the LED flashing, i immediately unplug it, say a few choice words, and begin looking for the short. I disconnect all wires from the main board, clean them up ensuring there are no “hairs” from any of the wires creating a short. Plug it back in, all is good, set the extruder temp, check. Set the bed temp, led starts flashing, unplug again, check the bed wires with Ohm meter and have continuity, wanted to check and see if the wires were bad, or the bed itself so i de-soldered the wires from the board, and found it to have a short. So i start a print, no shifted layers, but the damn part broke loose because i have always printed with a heated bed, and now have to figure out how to make the parts stick, i have always used the heated bed and hair spray.
On a side note, i now have a flaky connection at my extruder motor, i do not have a spare wire for it, and i am thinking i may just solder the wires directly to the motor. Has anyone done this? Any problems with doing so other than the obvious not being able to unplug the motor for whatever reason. This printer has seemed to go down hill quickly here lately.
2 months later
Hi,
A photo would be great to see what you are experiencing but I have just, finally, completed building a I3 Prusa and I found that the coupler that I have between the motor and threaded rod was not positioned right. I had placed the motor rod and the threaded rod in the middle of the coupler but when I inspected the inside of the coupler I saw that there seemed to be a shorter distance for the motor end than the threaded rod end. I place the couple about a 1/3 of the way into the coupler, you can see in the middle of the coupler where the motor rod should finish, and I now have much cleaner prints. I also have a wobbley extruder mount which I’m sure is not helping in this manner.
Hope this helps.
Steven
2 months later
What values constitute as being ‘high’? I’m having the same problem. Turned down the speed from the (default in Slic3r) from 80 to 60. Still have that issue. Turned down acceleration from 9000 (Marlin default?) to 7500. Problem persists. Is that low enough? I had a problem with slight drift when I first built it and turning up the current helped. Suddenly the problem returns worse and I returned the current to 0.8. I’ve read Nema 17s can take up to 1.3 but it’s already getting pretty hot.
It’s usually either warp, motor is too hot or driver is too hot. I think you’d know right away if acceleration was the problem. Belts can be too tight, that causes the motors to work harder.