DGvD
August 1, 2016, 7:43am
2
Hi
You can use Build talk surfaces. see https://www.buildtak.eu
Regards
Dirk
There is a heated bed kit for the UM2Go from 3dSolex. As you are from Germany, see here: Ultimaker 2 Go beheiztes Druckbett Upgrade
1 Like
+1 for buildtak and PLA. Without a heated bed I would be surprised if you managed to print ABS with any success.
3DMuse
August 1, 2016, 10:57am
5
Thank you! This seems to be the best solution at the moment. Will do more research on this! The price is high but I guess since the manufacturer is making it in low volume it is justified.
Hey,
all my prints that I did with abs failed with a cold bed, but with pla you can print on a cold bed
I would propose you choose the Ultimaker 2+. We have 2 machines and print small production batches in ABS daily. They are really good reliable machines for ABS productions.
3DMuse
August 1, 2016, 11:28am
9
Thanks for your comment. On their site https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-3d-print-surface/ it says BuildTak works for both PLA and ABS. So you’re saying a cold BuildTak surface didn’t work for ABS for you?
3DMuse
August 1, 2016, 11:29am
10
Hello Dirk,
Thank you for the info. Do you happen to know if BuildTak with work with ABS unheated?
3DMuse
August 1, 2016, 11:35am
11
Hello Jaime,
I really love the Ultimaker 2+ but unfortunately it is out of my budget as a second printer. I forgot to mention I already own a Zortrax M200 but want to print with other materials such as Ninjaflex, Woodfill, Bronzefill, Carbon fiber etc.
3DMuse
August 1, 2016, 11:37am
12
DGvD
August 1, 2016, 12:00pm
13
Hi
i don’t have any experience with ABS. It’s smell too much. Normally i use nGen, XT, bronzefill, woodfill or PLA/PHA from colorfabb, my two printers have a heated bed.
The buildtak manufacturer claims that its buildtak surface works with ABS, but when it’s pôssible he prefer a heated bed.
You can give it a try without and decides afterwords if a heated bed is needed. The purchase of a UM2go and the upgrade with a heated bed will cost a little bit less then a purchase of an UM2+. So at the end i’ll choose for the UM2+
I have found this offer with nearly new printers: http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/computers-en-software/printers-3d/m1070425060-lay3rs-3dprinting-5-stuks-ultimaker-2-demo-3dprinters.html?c=8c285449651fa109c354bbabe740c1b&previousPage=lr&pos=30
Regards
Dirk
gr5org
August 1, 2016, 1:56pm
14
What country are you in? 3dsolex sells a um2go HB kit in most of the world, thegr5store.com (my store) sells it in USA. These places also all sell a 1.75mm conversion kit if you want to continue to use your 1.75mm filament.
Ultimaker specifically will tell you that you can’t print ABS without a heated bed. For good reason. I printed some ABS parts on my um2go last night and even though they were tiny (4 minute prints) I had to enclose the printer completely to get good results.
I recommend staying away from ABS. There are much better materials out there (easier to print, stronger, higher glass temp, less brittle, etc). Why do you want to print ABS and not PLA?
I love my UM2+ with the heated bed. I’ve never had to use tape or glue. The prints stick so hard to the bed that they are difficult to pull off while it is still hot. I usually just wait for it to cool down and they release on their own.
The UM2+ is fairly portable. But if you need something smaller to travel with, go with the UM2Go and go for tape and glue.
3DMuse
August 1, 2016, 9:28pm
16
I’m in Germany. Thank you I have found a store that sells the mini heated bed here! You are absolutely right, we don’t always have to go with ABS. I am also planning to use the UM2Go to print other materials such as Ninjaflex, Woodfill, Bronzefill, Carbon fiber etc… So I think the HB upgrade is worth a shot don’t you think?
gr5org
August 2, 2016, 12:35pm
17
Even if you only ever print PLA, a heated bed is wonderful. Much easier than replacing the tape every 5 or 10 prints.
gregh
August 2, 2016, 12:50pm
18
I am a huge UM2 advocate and when I came to choose another printer I got a second one the same.
Only thing I would comment is that you mention Ninjaflex and this might mean you’d be better off with a direct extruder rather than Bowden tube feed.
gr5org
August 2, 2016, 2:23pm
19
Very true. I’ve printed plenty of ninjaflex on various UM printers and having the bowden is a disadvantage but you can do it - you just have to learn some tricks and you will end up printing much slower but you can do it. But if I were going to be printing a spool per month of ninja (or more) I would seriously consider getting a different printer. They have a “cheetah” filament that is even easier to print now by the way. Not quite as flexible.
3DMuse
August 2, 2016, 2:52pm
20
Thanks for the heads up. Luckily i don’t mind tinkering around! Maybe should go with less flexible materials like flexible polyester from plastic2print.com or as you mentioned Cheetah or Semiflex. Seems to me they have better surface quality too because of a wider T_g range.
3DMuse
August 2, 2016, 8:03pm
21
Hey you wrote the firmware! Good job!