I really love the Ultimaker 2+ but unfortunately it is out of my budget as a second printer. I forgot to mention I already own a Zortrax M200 but want to print with other materials such as Ninjaflex, Woodfill, Bronzefill, Carbon fiber etc.
i don’t have any experience with ABS. It’s smell too much. Normally i use nGen, XT, bronzefill, woodfill or PLA/PHA from colorfabb, my two printers have a heated bed.
The buildtak manufacturer claims that its buildtak surface works with ABS, but when it’s pôssible he prefer a heated bed.
You can give it a try without and decides afterwords if a heated bed is needed. The purchase of a UM2go and the upgrade with a heated bed will cost a little bit less then a purchase of an UM2+. So at the end i’ll choose for the UM2+
What country are you in? 3dsolex sells a um2go HB kit in most of the world, thegr5store.com 1 (my store) sells it in USA. These places also all sell a 1.75mm conversion kit if you want to continue to use your 1.75mm filament.
Ultimaker specifically will tell you that you can’t print ABS without a heated bed. For good reason. I printed some ABS parts on my um2go last night and even though they were tiny (4 minute prints) I had to enclose the printer completely to get good results.
I recommend staying away from ABS. There are much better materials out there (easier to print, stronger, higher glass temp, less brittle, etc). Why do you want to print ABS and not PLA?
I love my UM2+ with the heated bed. I’ve never had to use tape or glue. The prints stick so hard to the bed that they are difficult to pull off while it is still hot. I usually just wait for it to cool down and they release on their own.
The UM2+ is fairly portable. But if you need something smaller to travel with, go with the UM2Go and go for tape and glue.
I’m in Germany. Thank you I have found a store that sells the mini heated bed here! You are absolutely right, we don’t always have to go with ABS. I am also planning to use the UM2Go to print other materials such as Ninjaflex, Woodfill, Bronzefill, Carbon fiber etc… So I think the HB upgrade is worth a shot don’t you think?
Very true. I’ve printed plenty of ninjaflex on various UM printers and having the bowden is a disadvantage but you can do it - you just have to learn some tricks and you will end up printing much slower but you can do it. But if I were going to be printing a spool per month of ninja (or more) I would seriously consider getting a different printer. They have a “cheetah” filament that is even easier to print now by the way. Not quite as flexible.
Thanks for the heads up. Luckily i don’t mind tinkering around! Maybe should go with less flexible materials like flexible polyester from plastic2print.com or as you mentioned Cheetah or Semiflex. Seems to me they have better surface quality too because of a wider T_g range.
After downloading, connect USB between your computer and printer and using CURA choose “install custom firmware…” and select the downloaded hex file. It’s easy to go back to original firmware also in CURA.
Maybe time for an upgrade as mentioned by DIM3NSIONS 
