SLA or DLP Resin printers business opportunities?

HB3D · 2016-03-14T08:37:35.000Z

Hello

This is the best way to get started in 3D printing.

You will not find better as a showcase.

Regards

nacot · 2016-03-14T12:06:50.000Z

My idea is to start with 3dhub as source of first works and then build my own website, dedicated mostly to jewelry with dedicated services. On 3dHubs the resin printers adoption is low, i think for high resin and printers prices, and because this printers are dedicated for specific works.

Toddmichael · 2016-03-14T12:36:52.000Z

This statement completely confuses me, please clarity?

Toddmichael

Toddmichael · 2016-03-14T12:44:55.000Z

The materials are most of the time more expensive, but the reasoning is casting and burn out for the jewelry process. Additionally the ROI is greater accordingly. You can get 30 parts printed on FDM, if they are direct use parts, in a lower quality for $30.00 plus shipping. But those parts are not castable into fine jewelry pieces.

Do a simple experiment, design a piece for any other market and one for jewelry, have a 3dhub print it in FDM and Resin, compare pricing and castability. You will see the results first hand the the choice will stand clear.

I will post pictures at The_Jewelers_Bench on Instagram by noon with the same parts printed on FDM and SLA machines and you can see the print quality for yourself.

Toddmichael

HB3D · 2016-03-14T13:37:43.000Z

Hello,

3D printing very Resin works well.

I have lots of resin printing order .

The investment of a resin printer is good

Bests regards

JDollaCzech · 2016-03-14T13:45:41.000Z

I had a Form1+ on here for 6 months and I think I got 3x as many orders for my extrusion machine. It didn’t justify keeping it even though I really loved it.

nacot · 2016-03-14T13:59:17.000Z

From what i see 3dhub community is more oriented on fdm extrusion printing

Fabryka_Druku3d · 2016-03-14T14:18:49.000Z

Hi,

I do not recomend Fromlabs printers. I bought Form 1+ in July last year. First prints were awsome, but after few months it print worse then cheap FDM printer. Simply terrible. Stops in the middle of print, blistering, wholes etc. See pictures below.(should be architecture). I read formlabs forum and a lot of people have the same problems. At the beginning super quality after few prints really terible - especially bigger prints, which sometimes are impossibile to print without failure.

That product has simply bad design and catch a lot of dust from outside, which is impossible to clean after without disassebling. Warraty say - when you open you lose it .

It happend in December, i still didnt get new product or money back. Support want me to open printer by myself, there are not normal service just online. They dont take responsibility for thier products.

Really worst purchase ever.

Good luck guys with yours printers,

Piotr

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nacot · 2016-03-14T14:42:57.000Z

I see… sorry for that. In the new Form2 they should have solved that problem making the laser chamber sealed. I was oriented toward the Solus DLP Printer

Toddmichael · 2016-03-14T15:11:14.000Z

I have taken apart my form1+ twice, per their instructions for mirror cleaning, they took the machine back for service, and then replaced the printer with a new one. I guess everybody has different results.

As for a sealed chamber, how would you dispense the heat generated by the laser other than air flow. I added a air filter to the outside of the air intake after the cleaning the mirrors twice, no issues since.

Additionally the Solus uses an external projector, so the air flow through the printer to dissipate heat is not an issue.

The biggest issue I have with the form1 is the print quality for jewelry. If you get away from the notion of it being a printer for fine jewelry, micro pave, and less than .8 mm detail work your fine. I have found for heavier jewelry, and making pieces to be molded with resins other than the Castable Blue. Your Golden.

I would like to work with someone to try resins other than Formlabs to print on the form1. I believe their biggest “Jewelry” fall back in the resin, not the machine. I can get exceptional 25 micron results with any of their resin other than their castable.

jools · 2016-03-14T17:19:40.000Z

Hi -

I have a CAD service for professional goldsmiths and I do own a form 1+ and a robox fdm printer. I use the form1 for prototyping jewelry and for that it’s really good. For casting it’s not really usable for fine jewelry or let’s say: it just does not make sense. The quality is not really that good compared to what’s already out there, it takes a lot of time to print, finish and get ready for casting and then the goldsmith has more work with polishing as the surface is not as good as with wax. Pricewise you will have a real issue with the competition like shapeways etc or even the regular casting houses that offer prints made in a milling machine or with a solidscape. The problem as well will be the consistency of the prints and reliability of the printer. You will encounter a lot of problems with the machine… with all 3D printers really. So you will have a lots of times when your printer will be out of commission due to repairs. No plug and play as the say :-). The fdm printer is not usable at all for fine jewelry. Look, I love my printers, would hate to be without them. There is nothing more fascinating than watching something get actually build in a machine that you just created on your computer! But it’s more of a passion than a wise business decision.

Good luck

Julia

nacot · 2016-03-14T18:10:54.000Z

Thank you for your accurate reply, i have one more question, how you compare the Solus with the b9? Is the Solus more reliable?

Toddmichael · 2016-03-14T18:51:02.000Z

Julia, does say it best, when they work its awesome, when they don’t sheer pain.

In addition, to be a full service for anything that comes at you all comes down to investment.

>10k in my opinion you need both a printer and a good mill.

>25k in my opinion, Envisiontec Mirco, and a good mill.

>25k in my opinion Solidscape

>75k in my opinion 3d systems 3500 Max, Envisiontec Mini, freaking workhorses, huge print platforms,but you gotta run them 24 hours a day to get back your money, and they too will cause you pain and break down.

My investment is currently about 13k over 10 years, I use a Form1+, Solus, used Roldand MDX-15, and a used Roland MDX-40.

The mills sit mostly, but when you get a huge ass bangle, or a belt buckle, or something a rapper would wear, 60 x 125 mm

and up, its milling time baby. The wax burns out clean, and no matter what resin or resin hybrid that big do not, period.

Anything that comes in the way of jewelry, we can accomplish. But everything comes with cost, learning, and trial and error, and frustration. This is only my opinion, and if I was 25 again, this thread might look different.

Clara_Hoots_Tho · 2016-03-16T16:11:10.000Z

Have you or anyone looked at the Projet 1200 from 3d Systems? It’s $5,000.

GaryDawson · 2016-03-18T06:29:19.000Z

Hi Nacot, I’m the former sole worldwide dist. For B9 and both a current B9 and Solidscape distributor. Also the author of many tech articles. Call me anytime for straight info on anything AM. Each platform has strengths and weaknesses and the game is rapidly evolving. Gary- +1-541-729-2531

YASSCERA · 2016-04-04T22:44:46.000Z

We have a DLP printer and a castable resin. The Z resolution is 25 micron. Build size is set at 160 mm x 100 mm, which gives X resolution about 160/1920=0.083 mm (83 micron), and Y resolution of 93 micron. We can print a few parts for you to help you evaluate the quality of small details. You can also look at the pictures in our hub as well.

ceramdent · 2016-04-22T06:52:39.000Z

Hi. I have a Titan 1. When I got the printer I immediately inherited a whole bunch of problems regarding their printing vat and platform. I spent weeks re-inventing the vat as well as the print platform. I am now able to print into a glass petri dish with teflon held by a special rubber/acrylic bracket. I had to corona treat the teflon to epoxy it down on to the glass, since other self adhesive teflon sheets, in my opinion, are utterly useless. I always print onto a roughened acrylic base plate which is screwed to the original print platform. I got to say, I got pretty frustrated with resin prints not adhering on the platform. This problem has now been totally eliminated. I agree with what someone else said, this was not just a ‘plug and play’. I think the makers of the equipment were too rushed in releasing the equipment even with major faults.

On the brighter side, I can now print predictably and successfully in high detail using the correct resin all the time, and this with a fairly low priced printer.

If you are after a casting, you can always approach a dental lab for a quote. Most labs have sophisticated casting equipment and very accurate materials for detailed castings.

chrishenry · 2016-04-29T18:35:04.000Z

I have been using the Rapid Shape printers for about a year now and all I can say is that its awesome in every way. My 50 micron prints are better then any SLA or print head style printer out there even the 16 micron prints from the projet cannot compare. For those of you that want high detail and fast builds look at the Rapid Shape you wont regret it. 25 micron XYZ just cannot be beat.

Marcus_38 · 2016-11-03T21:21:36.000Z

I really hope you didnt buy the projet 1200

Maarten_4 · 2016-12-05T09:40:54.000Z

Is the Solus as good as the pictures on the Reify website?

I am looking into buying, but I see some DLP prints with rather rough surfaces. That seems to be absent with the solus. Now I have had years of tinkering with FDM printers, and I hate it, I just need the prints. So I am torn between Form2 and something with a finer resolution, but I really want these smooth surfaces. Thanks, Maarten