Using Flashforge Dreamer and FlashPrint. The pool pump knob as per CAD is fine, and prints as shown. The question is how do I get a normal surface on the underside of the knob, where the linear supports have been? The bottom surface that prints off the raft is fine, the top and sides are fine too, its just underside that I want to improve. Shells , Top & Bottom layers are set at 3. Layer height at 0.20mm, first layer height 0.30
PoolFilter Knob.pdf (183 KB)
I would flip the knob, so than only the middle hole will need support the bottom of the knob will lay on the bed = nice finish.
If you are really a perfectionist you can a print a small round plate witch will go into that hole so it can cover the not so nice finish of what the support can left behind ( even some sign can be printed into that plate if you would like)
T.
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I agree with tapalagyi, flipping it over would resolve most of the problems. You could put some arrows or some print inside the cut out that would be bridged to lower the amount of bridging. However check out this resource: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19643-bridging It makes suggestions around slowing down the speed, and using a lower temperature. Simplify3d let’s you control the bridging speed (the bridging layer is what you’re trying to control). It’s tough finding google results until you have the right keywords! I hope this helps!! 
Hi,
Tpalagy is right, flip it so that only the bottom hole needs support, also, is that hole at the bottom necessary? Because if you could leave it flat you won’t need support, at all…
Also slow down speed, a lot, probably 60 and if you are printing pla use heated bed 70 and extruder temp 90-95, 100 top, avoid ABS, I have a dreamer and they don’t perform great with ABS.
lastly use Kapton tape on the platform and spray it with hair styling spray, the cheapest you can find, using the settings above, heated bed and all, the part will stick to the platform and when the print reaches roughly 30% put a fan, not a big one, try to get a small usb fan and attach it to the printer so that the part gets air blowing directly to it…
G
I am going to add to what the others said.
You will always get marring with support materials, and ABS, which stays soft longer than PLA with active cooling, will always print worse.
However, your print suffers in 2 areas.
1. Too much support = much more marring. Only print enough support to hold the model up, and still.
2. Bridging is the key to decent (you will not get perfect) printing with supports, as the print is in effect bridging across the support material. So calibrate your bridging as a separate thing, and when you get good bridging, then follow those settings for printing on your support.
ABS also does not bridge as well as PLA (IMHO) so you will always get better results with supports with PLA and active cooling.
By looking at the picture, I am also concerned your support offset it not set high enough. At .2mm layer, it should be set at .3mm.
Finally, make sure your support is extending out to the full extent of the model. With simplify 3d there is a setting to extend support, I always run it way out.
But support is an imperfect solution.
another option would be printing it on its side, there is usually a good and bad side when you are 3d printing, you can control where it goes to an extent
Hello Perry_1
Thanks for all the input. I’ll try again with your’s and others suggestions.
OldGreyB
Hello ExtrudedDesigns,
Thanks for the input. Looks like I need to buy Simplify3d as well as modifying my print arrangement.
I tend to print “parts” so this was a good example for me to obtain input from those more learned than myself
OldGreyB
Gerardo_Saucedo,
Thanks for the input. No. the round hole on the bottom ( really the top) is not fundamentally required. However that is the side that people see, I want to the best surfacing there, as it should match an existing knob.
I use the printer to manufacture “parts” that are broken or need replication as per the original extrusions, so I am trying to learn how to obtain a quality finish for all surfaces if at all possible.
OldGreyB
Well I understand if having an exact replica is crucial follow my advise, drop the supports and use the hair spary, the part will stick and it will have a smooth finish, apart from the centre where you will have to remove the support, of you use it…
I’ve noticed that you where suggested to get Simplify 3D, although I have not tasted it myself I’ve seen some who get amazing prints using that software. I also have a creator pro and I use makerbot desktop when I print on that machine and the prints have always been superior quality than those from the dreamer & flashprint and I believe is the slicing, the supports on made by makerbot desktop for the creator are way easier to remove and leave much less residue, so the software plays an important part and even though flashprint has improved its way inferior than makerbot so i would say you’ll probably get better prints with simplify 3D
And remember use PLA and the cooling fan…
G
