Rough edges

[SOC3D]

That doesn’t look like 100 micron .1mm layer height? Also I don’t specifically see rough edges on it. In general, more cooling, slower print speed, mess with retraction, coast and wipe settings. Maybe calibrate your extruder, filament, extrusion multiplier.

[Zide]

Use Simplify3D, it helped me alot with warping issues, also print slower and try adding a computer fan to the print bed.

[Kroete]

Hi,

I am a printerbot simple user myself and my first guess would be that either you print too fast or the distance to your print bed is not leveld properly?

While the distance to you printbed is in your hardware settings I can share my CURA settings (attached) which work good for me.

[chunkysteveo]

Looks too hot and you’re printing too fast so the layers are just not cooling in time and melting. In Cura you can set a minimum layer time, I have it set to at least 15 seconds I think, especially for Marvin which has very quick layer to layer times. Check out my orange Marvin on my hub page pictures https://www.3dhubs.com/manchester/hubs/chunky-steveo which was done on a Simple 1405. That’s almost straight off the printer. Assume you have the fan going too and this is PLA?

[Mike_DiMare]

Slow the print down and add some more cooling.

[GAPDaTsar]

Fan is at 100% and PLA (polylactic acid).

[GAPDaTsar]

I recalibrated it and now printing a new Marvin… Let’s see how this goes.

[GAPDaTsar]

I printed it again with lots of cooling and slower print along with retraction but it still came out to look like this. Should I not use Repitier Host as a program or what? The leveling probe is calibrated to an excellent height because the first layers are great. I also have the Printrbot Simple WOOD. The one that comes as a kit you build from wood. I am not going to switch to the factory made metal printrbot, that’s more money to spend. I am trying to make excellent 3D prints with an outdated wooden printrbot that is not even for sale anymore. I was hoping 3D printing for people would help make me money like online artists do since I don’t have a job. Just trying to make a living with what I like.

[GAPDaTsar]

Here is the outdated Printrbot I am using.

[twiesner]

Contaminated filament by dust, debris, or even moisture can cause the print issues that are being displayed. Have you installed a filament cleaner? How do your store your filament when not in use? How old is the filament and have you tried a different pla to rule out bad filament? All filaments have a certain “shelf life” even if it is a unopened package.

[Mike_DiMare]

You should be able to get better results with Cura/Repetier on this wooden simple. You don’t NEED the metal simple.

Have you tried dialing back your extrusion multiplier?

Can you post your GCODE header so we can see your settings?

Retraction still seems to be too low.

Also, making a living on 3D hubs printing is going to be tough, just warning you.

[GAPDaTsar]

Have not dusted off filament in a while. Probably put a foam cleaner on the printer.

[GAPDaTsar]

Here are my settings.

[chunkysteveo]

I have this - its a Printrbot Simple Makers Kit 1405. You can get excellent prints from this printer if you dial in the settings. All my images on my hub page are from my 1405. Have you started with the Cura profiles that Printrbot supply on their website? They are a great start to getting it print great

[RotaryFurball]

Slower print speed. Needs more cooling.

[GAPDaTsar]

I have no idea how you prints nuts and bolts with this wooden printer.

[GAPDaTsar]

I’ll see what Cura can do.

[GAPDaTsar]

Printed Marvin using CURA and Marvin still came out looking like a piece of splintery/rough wood that I would use for fire and yes, max cooling, slower print speed, good retraction, calibrated leveling probe to perfection, extrusion multiplier is a little less, clean filament. I’m just going to get a new 3D printer as soon as I make money off of polished metal castings.

[twiesner]

I still suspect it may be contaminated filament by moisture or contaminated during the manufacturer’s end. I’ve had a few rolls where the last half of the roll had air bubbles which then caused odd extrusion issues. I still suggest testing with another filament to rule out issues with the blue filament you are using.

Last suggestion would be to change slicers. If you are willing to spend $150 I would highly recommend switching to simplify3d. I made the move a long time ago from cura to simplify3d for all my printers. When I was using Cura, my prints on my 2 printrbot simple metals always looked like crap. Ruled out all common causes to my print issues and when I did switch I discovered right a way that the reason my prints looked like crap was because of Cura’s slicing algorithm. Cura is made to primarily support ultimaker printers and other printers second.

[chunkysteveo]

Haha, thanks! I wouldn’t get hung up on the fact the printer is made of wood - the first Ultimakers were make from wood, and so are some other current printers such as the BigBox from E3D.

I would try some different filament as suggested - the only consistent thing form your pictures is the model (Marvin) and the PLA material.

I have attached a PDF of an example GCODE file for one of my Marvin’s I pint as keychains. The final print is a 2 perimeter ZERO fill print at 0.1mm layer height. The orange Marvin you saw in my pictures on my hub (and all others I Have successfully printed since) are using this GCODE. You will need to copy and paste it into an empty text file and save it as a .gcode file. Try running that on your Printrbot - it SHOULD work as is, as we have the same model. If you don’t get a good result, try a different filament? Also check out the commented top section which shows most of the basic Cura settings.

Let us know how you get on.

Steve

Your printer is a good printer, you just need to teach it how to!!
20140926_Marvin_KeyChain_no_infill.pdf (1.62 MB)