You should be able to get better results with Cura/Repetier on this wooden simple. You don’t NEED the metal simple.
Have you tried dialing back your extrusion multiplier?
Can you post your GCODE header so we can see your settings?
Retraction still seems to be too low.
Also, making a living on 3D hubs printing is going to be tough, just warning you.
I have this - its a Printrbot Simple Makers Kit 1405. You can get excellent prints from this printer if you dial in the settings. All my images on my hub page are from my 1405. Have you started with the Cura profiles that Printrbot supply on their website? They are a great start to getting it print great
Slower print speed. Needs more cooling.
Printed Marvin using CURA and Marvin still came out looking like a piece of splintery/rough wood that I would use for fire and yes, max cooling, slower print speed, good retraction, calibrated leveling probe to perfection, extrusion multiplier is a little less, clean filament. I’m just going to get a new 3D printer as soon as I make money off of polished metal castings.
I still suspect it may be contaminated filament by moisture or contaminated during the manufacturer’s end. I’ve had a few rolls where the last half of the roll had air bubbles which then caused odd extrusion issues. I still suggest testing with another filament to rule out issues with the blue filament you are using.
Last suggestion would be to change slicers. If you are willing to spend $150 I would highly recommend switching to simplify3d. I made the move a long time ago from cura to simplify3d for all my printers. When I was using Cura, my prints on my 2 printrbot simple metals always looked like crap. Ruled out all common causes to my print issues and when I did switch I discovered right a way that the reason my prints looked like crap was because of Cura’s slicing algorithm. Cura is made to primarily support ultimaker printers and other printers second.
Haha, thanks! I wouldn’t get hung up on the fact the printer is made of wood - the first Ultimakers were make from wood, and so are some other current printers such as the BigBox from E3D.
I would try some different filament as suggested - the only consistent thing form your pictures is the model (Marvin) and the PLA material.
I have attached a PDF of an example GCODE file for one of my Marvin’s I pint as keychains. The final print is a 2 perimeter ZERO fill print at 0.1mm layer height. The orange Marvin you saw in my pictures on my hub (and all others I Have successfully printed since) are using this GCODE. You will need to copy and paste it into an empty text file and save it as a .gcode file. Try running that on your Printrbot - it SHOULD work as is, as we have the same model. If you don’t get a good result, try a different filament? Also check out the commented top section which shows most of the basic Cura settings.
Let us know how you get on.
Steve
Your printer is a good printer, you just need to teach it how to!!
20140926_Marvin_KeyChain_no_infill.pdf (1.62 MB)
As counter intuitive as it may sound… Try decreasing your cooling. I find especially with round overhangs like Marvins belly and ears too much cooling actually causes the layers to curl upward causing surfsce issues like you describe… On my printrbot go large I need to decrease the fan to 60% to avoid over cooling
Do all your prints turn out like this or just marvin?
Do you store your filament in sealed bags or containers with desiccant ? If not your issue with the last half of the roll is likely moisture take up… It causes bubbles and under extrusion aswell as making your filament more brittle
Yes I store my filaments with in air tight containers with desiccants after use. I do not leave my rolls out after use. Contaminated or bad rolls I’ve received were riorand and hatchbox brands through certain sellers selling on Amazon. I’ve stopped purchasing those brands as my last purchased rolls had visible debris in the filament that could be seen through the packaging.
The current brands I use I’ve had no issues with.
