Removing Prints from Flashforge Creator Pro

[bpachal]

Hi Everyone.

So I am new to this. I did lots of research before buying my printer but now that I have it I am running into a problem with prints sticking to my build platform. I see others are having the same issue with various other models but I want to know if someone who has the FFCP can give me their method for avoiding stuck prints.

To add a bit more detail; I started off by printing the traffic cone that comes on the SD card. It printed well and when I went to remove it… nothing, it was stuck. Now I didn’t put any tape down as I was not aware that was a thing. I simply leveled my build platform and began printing as per the instructions. It was pretty hard to get off. I let the platform cool down and was able to eventually pry it from the surface. Now the traffic cone has a pretty small surface area. My recent print (which failed at 70% of 6 hours, ugh another story) is completely stuck to the platform. It has cooled for hours and I cannot get it free.

I have the blue platform stickers that came with the printer but the instructions say not to removed the original and that these are spares. I also watched a youtube video of a guy printing without the blue platform sticker on.

Anyways I am sure I have been doing something wrong but can someone please point out what it is. And how I can go about getting my current prints off the platform? Thank you very much.

[Herman_I]

Have been using the blue sticker from day one and it is perfect to me. There is always a balance between stickyness (the model HAS to stick to the surface) and getting the model off again. With PLA as well as ABS I just turn on the preheater, let the bed warm up (again) to about 60 C for PLA and 110 for ABS and then it is easy to get a flat knife under the print to remove it. For me it works like a charm and I’m still using the original first blue sticker.

[designtoprint]

Hi,

If you are having troubles removing it, you can either put down new blue tape or just print with a raft. Also invest in a scraper to get off your prints when they are done. Are you using PLA or ABS?

[iTech3DP]

This was my frustration about 2 years ago as well. I switch to a glass plate and no more sticking problems, but that doesn’t help you now. I had to print rafting to make it easier to remove, ABS or PLA. That and a lot of blue painters tape later. Problem with rafting is that it requires some post processing cleanup. I also use HIPS as a support material for ABS and PVA for PLA, these two materials are much easier to remove, in my opinion. Everyone else’s suggestions are great too.

[FFUZZ3D]

EDITED: DONT HEAT YOUR PRINT BED FOR PLA! It is completely unnecessary, despite what most everyone says about it. I dont heat my print bed when I use PLA and the prints end up waaaay better. also, try pointing a fan at your print while its printing—keeps it easy to pluck off the bed, AND it keeps the print from sagging, bending, or sticking too hard to the bed plate, (and will probably blow you away with the increase in print quality).

Well, it greatly depends on the filament material you’re printing with, but my first and biggest suggestion is that you use blue painters tape on your print bed. It gives great adhesion for your prints, and it also has a little bit of flexibility to make it easier to remove finished prints. I use it for every print I’ve ever made, replacing it every 5 prints or so, or whenever it gets torn or worn-looking. I use 3M painters tape, and I would absolutely recommend it as a first step. Also, make sure you’re heating (or not heating) the bed properly, according to which material you’re using, as an overheated bed can cause prints to get really stuck. Good luck out there! -FFUZZ3D

[findvikas]

I did one test print and got rid of original blue sticker. I have tried blue tape as well but it had curl or warping issues unless I use Glue stick and after couple of prints I had to remove the blue painter’s tape which is not much that I like.

I moved on to Kaptop tape, pasting it nicely without bubbles take some practice but it can last easily for 15-20 prints without much issues. It gives me shiny bottom and very nicely printed prints. Definitely invest in 3d Print Spatula while I myself got these from HomeDepot for under $12 you get 3 plastic and 1 metal spatula.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-6-in-Hammer-End-Joint-Knife-22-076/100660218

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Economy-Putty-Knife-Set-3-Pack-08202/205029865

[turbotux]

I recommend getting one of the large handle exacto knifes with the chisel tip. You can slowly pry around the model and give it a little push to pop it right off.

[bpachal]

Hello everyone,

Thank you for your replies and I apologize for my late response. I know it must seem like I have abandoned this post. I was dealing with some other matters and finally can return to 3D Printing

I have started incorporating a raft into my prints and that has helped tremendously. I haven’t yet needed to go to tape but may start if I run into problems again. I am also going to print the glass bed parts available on Thingaverse and buy a few sheets of fitted glass. I really like the idea of being able to remove the glass bed, replace it with another, and continue printing.

Again thanks for all the great responses and help with my problem.

Bryan,

[djprinter]

I tried just about every glass holder on thingiverse and none of them reliably held my glass plate securely, metal clips work but can be hit by the extruder. Taping the glass down works, but it’s a pain, 0.5mm thermal pads are the best solution IMO.

Also if you’re going to be printing abs with a heated bed, then you’ll want to use thermal glass. Regular glass will end up cracking due to expansion when heating and cooling.

[findvikas]

I bought this one off ebay for under $30

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Print-Platform-4-FlashForge-Creator-PRO-Dreamer-3D-Printer-Filament-Plate-/331327956744

​This Shim to prevent the head to hit the glass

FlashForge/PowerSpec glass-bed z-axis shim by johngiachero

​and this holder to secure it in place

Flashforge Glass Bed Corner Bracket by Makersome

You need to unscrew the two corner screws that hold the bed together and then attach the holder (tighten it). Works like charm for me

[iTech3DP]

I use this method as well, only my corner screws were long enough to use a wingnut and washer without having to removing the one holding the bed down.

[findvikas]

You need just corner screws to come off as well. I used the top left and bottom right screw. Don’t expect the glass to be super tight but the point is just to secure it enough in case of nozzle rub against it.

if you alignment is correct then the nozzle should never touch the glass and the ABS/PLA are never too strong to pull the glass off the bed even if you remove the holders.

The glass should be loose enough to take the it off without loosing the nuts.

I can share pics if you want

[Michael_Harr_1]

Hi, I am completely new to the world of 3D printing (Hello community! this may seem like a dumb answer/question, but what about if your put a thin layer of olive oil on the bed, as if you were cooking? Or would that cause it not to “stick in place” and shift while printing? IDK, I may try it on a small sample print…as I too had a B*tch of a time trying to get my very first print off which was the mini traffic cone that comes preloaded with the FlashForge Creator pro.

Thank you!

Mike