Raise 3D N2 Plus

[Stanos]

I got it during the kickstarter. I was a late round backer so I got mine a bit later after they had made some improvements. The bed can be a bit of a pain to level if it’s off but once it’s set it works without any issues. I’ve run it for many many hundreds of hours without issue. Their materials are good but I have been using hatchbox exclusively for about a year with no issues. The quality is excellent, speed is good, it’s wireless, takes external cards, has a nice display and controls. Their slicing software ideaMaker is pretty decent now and they update it frequently. You can use any other slicer but it acts a bit weird sometimes especially if you try to use another slicer’s dual extrusion. I have a Prusa v2 and an i3 I built that only get used when I’m backed up with orders on the n2+ and really need to. I haven’t used flexible filaments on it, just abs and pla but I’ve heard of decent results. The community is pretty good and there are lots of community made upgrades and tweaks some of which have made it into production. Ryan

[Alex_fablab]

I have the raise3D N2 plus.

For me it’s the best 3D printer

I think to buy another one (N2 or N2 plus)

[stevec121]

Yes - and yes!

[stevec121]

http://www.artlab3dprpinting.com/ just bombs out - is this a typo?

[Technologyoutle]

We sell 3D printers globally and use all of them in the print farm (including the Raise machines).

I am the company engineer working on the machines, doing any CAD work and using them to print and I can say with confidence, by far the best machine under £10k.

Reliability is great.

Printing is stunning (especially in carbon fibre).

Print speed is decent (for a 1.75mm machine).

And its got some nice features.

Couple it with Simplify3D, you’re on to a winner

Hope this helps.

If you fancy a chat or would like to see them in action give me a call on 01530 811004

Thanks

Connor

[bvandenbroeck]

Yes! Sorry www.artlab3dprinting.com

[bvandenbroeck]

If anyone wants to help out a fellow maker, I independently sell Raise3Ds for their team after I fell in love with my first N2. You can go to my site www.artlab3dprinting.com or raise3D.com to get one. You’ll pay the same price either way.

[jcamper]

Do any of you ever print nylon and ninjaflex in your raise?

[bvandenbroeck]

PolyFlex (Pokymaker) and Phoenix Nylon (Breathe3D) work great, but in my experience NinjaFlex and SemiFlex work best with the Bondtech extruder upgrade.

[Technologyoutle]

Hi jcamper,

We are currently moding one of our Raise N2 Plus machines to run flexible filaments. The mod will soon be on our website.

We have a few customers successfully printing in Nylon. But Simplify3D is a must.

[Technologyoutle]

Video issue is very easily fixed by tightening a few grub screws

[jcamper]

What would you recommend under 5k then?

[PhilippGlasneck]

Hallo Raise N2 plus is rubbish !

-Rods not play free

-Fanholder broken

-Fan sucks filament

-Z axis not play syncron

-Z swtch make difference

-big spool blocked door

- oil dripping down bett

- no App control

-idealmaker dose not work in the last window

- Pause accidental clips left side

and more …

My is wrongly built first print accident Right Extruder Cow tail - YouTube

No the Hole in heating block is to big for Hetbreaker

[PhilippGlasneck]

No the Hole in heating block is to big for Hetbreaker Hot End Rotating - YouTube

[Jeff_Johnson]

I’ve been 3D printing for almost 4 years now. the N2+ is the best 3D printer I have ever owned. Better prints than my Taz 5, and years ahead of my Replicator 2x. Prints at 0.3mm look cleaner and better than many of the prints I see in Facebook groups that was printed at 0.1mm.

It’s a workhorse that has allowed me to build a business printing for others. In 2 months, the printer paid for itself in paid work. I love it so much, that I purchased a N2 about 2 months after that and in January, purchased my 2nd N2+. I’m slowly replacing my other printers with these. The next couple I get will be N2’s so I can stack them on heavy duty shelving, otherwise I’d go ahead and spend the extra money for the N2+.

The touch screen is a great feature that allows you to tweak settings on the fly and there are ample ports for USB, SD and plenty of onboard memory.

If you get a jam, you can undo three thumb screws and use the included ram rod to force whatever is causing the jam out. (sometimes you need to take the nozzle off). You’ll be printing again in minutes. Other printers, like a replicator 2x take a lot longer to clear since you have to remove the long allen screw that holds the fans and extruder motor in place.

The IdeaMaker software has a ton of features. Custom manual supports, cut files in the app, and basic repair features. I used to use Simplify 3D, but haven’t used it once for the N2 or N2+.

And the most important thing - They have a great support team and a very active user community in the company’s online forum.

The hot end goes to 300°. I’ve printed Polycarbonate, Nylon, PETG, ABS, Ninjaflex and some PLA, and PLA wood, with no issues besides tweaking the temperatures.

It’s not foolproof. You still have to tinker and tweak settings for different materials, but you’d have to do that with any printer.

My only issues are:

• No out of filament detector (Makerbot was able to get this right, so others should be able to do so too).
• Bed clips - The back has brackets to hold the glass in place. The front uses office binder clips. They work, I just feel like they could have come up with a more elegant solution.
• Bed leveling for printing without a raft. The printer comes pre-leveled from the factory and is fine for printing with a raft, but if you want to print without a raft, you will need to adjust the 7 or 8 screws under the heated bed to get everything perfectly leveled. If you are fine printing with a raft, then you shouldn’t have to do anything.
• A remote app - Again Makerbot was able to create an app with remote camera viewing and a pause print function, estimated time remaining, etc. why can’t they do the same?
• BuildTak - I loved BuildTak before I owned a N2+, but the 13" x 13.5" sheets are expensive compared to other sizes, (Not Raise3D’s fault) so I buy the 12" x 12" sheets and use blue painter’s tape to go to the edge of the glass.

Issues I’ve had (that weren’t my fault):

• I’ve broken two endstop switches (one on the N2 and one on the N2+). It’s a $7 part that both times were covered by warranty. In fact, support sent me two when one broke, so I had a backup which meant a quick swap when the other endstop broke. Both times were actually caused by filament tangled on spools. When the filament broke, the extruder slammed into the switch and bent the switch. The printer will actually print with a broken x or y endstop. (you just can’t pause to change filament, since there will be no reference point).
• Thermocoupler. I did have a thermocoupler go out (the temperature sensor) after 6 months, it was technically out of warranty, but the support team went ahead and covered it anyway.

I know some people have had issues, but think most of the issues are from damage during shipping, so check the shock tag on the side of the box when it arrives.

​

[PhilippGlasneck]

check the shock tag ? I have found nothing ""sticker and paper " need picture

[jcamper]

UH?

[Jeff_Johnson]

It’s a big octagon sticker (about 6-8") with “WARNING” at the top and a little capsule in the middle. It looks something like the one attached. (I don’t don’t have a Raise3D box handy to photograph.) They are usually on anything with electronics or glass that is shipped via freight these days. I’ve also seen these on boxes that weigh over 30lbs through FedEx and UPS. (The manufacturer adds these, not the shipper).

It’s been on the box of all three Raise3D printers I’ve received over the past year. If the capsule center is red, it means that the box experienced an impact during shipment that was above the “normal” levels during shipment (different color tags are for different levels of gforces). You are supposed to note on the shipping doc you sign if the center is red or partially red.

If you ever watched the show Mythbusters, they would stick these stickers on Buster, their crash test dummy to determine if a human would have survived whatever myth they were testing.

You are supposed to note on the waybill when you sign if the shock tag has been triggered.

[PhilippGlasneck]

sorry not in europe

[Jeff_Johnson]

Sorry, I’m in the US, so I can not speak to what is done for shipment in any other country.