ANY suggestions would be immensely appreciated…
All I would suggest is to re-level your print bed…
Over time is can shift a little, so this is my first thing to check when I’m having adhesion problems.
Also I use this sort if stuff (I FlashForge own version) and it sticks like a dream…
https://www.unatechnology.co.uk/shop/peripherals/peripherals-printers/peripherals-printers-3d-printers/makerbot-replicator-build-plate-tape-pack-of-10
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Are you using hairspray or anything similar to help with adhesion
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See response on S3D site.
I’m going to second re-leveling the print bed. Also what layer height are you printing at? I have nothing but trouble trying to do 0.1mm on my FFCP but 0.2 and 0.4mm work without much issue.
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Good point. If you are going to do a .1 layer in ABS get .2 working perfect first then make the necessary adjustments to get a .1 layer.
This is what works for me. Clean glass, wipe down with Aquanet hairspray as a cleaner, Apply clear ABS slurry at 80C. Heat bed to 95c when printing. Level bed at 80C and the nozzle cold. No rafts in years, they are old tech. Maybe brims, depends on design printing.
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I use glass bed cleaned with rubbing alcohol and AquaNet (purple can) as well. I too have had times when I always had to print a raft, and then all of a sudden I don’t - even after leveling. I’ve had times when hairspray doesn’t work either - it’s strange. Printing has been pretty consistent lately without any problems.
Although recently whenever I print with ABS, I use Kapton tape on the glass with the hairspray. I haven’t had luck with ABS without the tape lately.
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You really should never have to print with a raft. I have never used one with any material (ABS, PLA, PETG, Nylon, etc). I have 3 flashforge creator pros and a Makerbot. If it was printing fine but now it is not it is most likely a bed leveling issue. I always manually level my FlashForge Creator Pro. It is much easier than using the software to do it. You just raise the bed all the way up using the jogging controls the use the jogging to move the printer head backward and forward. You can manually move the printer head left and right. Adjust the screws on the bottom accordingly. You should also heat the bed and printer head when you are leveling the bed as it can make a difference with expansion of the bed material. Materials expand when heated and contract when cooled. My bed setup is this. Glass bed with PET tape and Auqanet hairspray. This works like a charm for ABS and PETG. For PLA you can print directly on glass using just the hairspray. My prints always come out beautifully using this method. Also the center should be slightly tighter than the rest. That is normal.
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There really is no need to print below .2. You can always vapor smooth ABS.
My brother has the same 3D printer and has never tried to print without the raft. He tries to avoid those problems. I have a QIDI Tech 1 and it has the same problem sometimes. I have adjusted the print bed during a “pause” and it did a little better, but still not as good as with the raft.
The Tech told me to make the bed cooler. That did not work either, and when I tried it with the print bed hot, the piece warped at the edges.
ALL3D
June 6, 2017, 10:59pm
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You can try this method. Set brim to 2 layer or 3 layer and brim 10 or above with zero distance. I cannot remember my previous temperature setting.
One more thing is the cooling setting. Activate the cooling fan after 3 or 5 layer print job.
It work for me and hope it will work for you. Good luck.
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Exactly… I’ve leveled it SO MANY TIMES… ugh… like last night… I raised the temp to 260 and it printed to the bed (at 110 ) like a charm with no raft. No burning, no warping. I only printed HALF of the print. Today I go to print the whole thing… failure. The first layer seems to come out like a thin strip… sometimes it lays it down properly other times it starts to act like thin spiderweb and it starts to pick up pieces that were at one time properly adhered to the bed, pulls them up into a mass on the nozzle… ugh… It’s really starting to get old…
Clean with Aquanet??? I thought it was used like glue?
Never actually checked…(checking) It’s using the 0.1mm setting. I’ve used this setting since I got it (for my final prints)… NEVER had an issue before. I’ve always had to print at a bit higher temps for ABS… around 260 and I never got warping and everything I printed was tough as nails.
Purple Elmers stick glue… I’m starting to dislike it though… it builds up and seems to not really adhere after a couple uses…
Try using painters tape (BLUE) on the bed and spread glue stick on the top, it works for me every time for ABS, also just advice use PET-G instead of ABS as its has no fumes, no warping and same strength.
Have you tried to adjust your nozzle or bed temperatures? I am having trouble like you if I change a different brand of ABS, it needs few prints to get the bed adhesion correctly. And usually, when testing, I ran a small model as well as a larger model, as the model size affects the bed adhesion as well.
