I haven’t tried dual color prints yet myself either but plowed through the HIPS(left) | ABS(right) as support/primary material the first weekend I got the machine and love the new combination. The HIPS doesn’t bond very well to the ABS making it a cinch to remove. Just peels right off. I’ve tried PVA once and it was fine. Initial layer adhesion was more challenging.
Got an order on on here from someone to print some ABS parts with lots of small venturi and dang if the HIPS support didn’t slide right out. It was amazing. This combo is almost my new favorite. I was using Hatchbox white ABS with GizmoDorks white HIPS.
Best advice I have is to print the 20mmx20mm makerbot test cube and watch it print every layer while observing how it is acting. There is endless amounts of free information regarding how a printer should print and what it should look like. Simplify3d has a free cause and effect pdf. file that is very helpful in determining problems and causes. If you use the makerware software be careful because the default settings will not work well on the printer. Using makerware is better than the replicator software when you get it setup right. Here is a link to my Thingiverse designs where you will find .json files for the QIDI (Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects 30). One for PLA and one for ABS. Download the latest version of makerware desktop and follow videos on youtube of how to import .json files into profiles. The files I created work well on my QIDI and should provide any QIDI user with a point to start where your prints are good and just need a little tweaking. When setting up makerware desktop remember to use makerbot dual printer profile only. After having my printer for a year I have managed to achieve prints as good quality as prints from a u-print or dimension printer.
I’m literally having the exact same problem. I tried. contacting support and they were not helpful at all. Have you figured out a fix?
Im also having a problem with installing the MK all Swiss nozzle, the hot end will not come out of the silver block. Does anyone have a fix for that? It’s supposed to slide out easily (and yess I did take out the screw at the back of the sliver block, it’s a tiny black screw)
I personally have not tried a Mk Swiss nozzle as I just use the stock one. As of yet I have not found a fix for the second extruder which is frustrating because I got this printer for the dual extrusion capability. With your nozzle issues the Swiss nozzle might not have the same threads as the printer does. I have noticed after checking the wire holder bolts that they use an odd form of measurement so that may be the issue.
The unit of measurement is SAE / imperial. SAE stands for society of automotive engineers. Thats the unit of measurement on the wire bolts so it may be the same for the nozzle threads.
Turns out the one of the stepper motor wires broke. After replacing it I was able to get perfect prints. A quick question though. My rafts are sticking a bit too well to the prints. I can get them off but with a lot leftover thus requiring me to use a razor to pick it off, any tips?
Again, that sounds like the nozzle is to close to the bed. The clicking is the extruder skipping which basically means something is restricting the filament from being able to extrude. So, if it extrudes ok when loading but stops when trying to print there are only a few things it can be.
Nozzle to close to the bed.
Temp not high enough for the filament and the speed.
Some other obstruction or binding.
Level the bed and then lower it away from the nozzle a bit so there is a bit of space and then see what happens.
Also what are the settings for the first layer plus temps etc.?
Another thing is make sure there is nothing binding the filament as the gantry moves. Possible for it to get pinched.
This is not uncommon. The barrel gets a “notch” in it from the screw and that hangs on the bore. I have one that is so stuck I will have to drive it out with a punch.
