I have no experience with delta printers, but I have a mendel90, and it’s great. Compared to a reprap, parts can realy easily be replaced (not that you have to :)), you can reach every part, frame is nice and sturdy. It can easily be turned on its side or upside down (not sure if it will still print right when upside down, should test that some day )
Compared to a makerbot however, it is quite noisy.
I agree that the moving bed is a disadvantage and very few printers still use this. Even the new Velleman is using a static bed now opposed to the moving bed in the K8200.
One of the reasons for the builder of the Mendel90 was to get rid of the threaded rods to make the printer more sturdy. There is a big downforce because the motors and rods are all attached to the flat bottom plate. For this reason the Mendel90 must be one of the most stable xyz printers around right behind the 3d printers build in metal frames.
For me, the two more important advantages are:
The Z axis. While in a cartesian printer the Z axis move is given by a different mechanism than Y and Z axis, in a Delta printer all three arms are actionated exactly the same way.
As the actuator is lighter (as per design), you have less inertia to break, thus, you can increase the speed without lossing quaility.
That being said, not all Deltas are the same. You need to have a very well build frame, with the right geometry, otherwise all advantages are none.
Well, I do not know about Kossel, but the Rostock Max V2 kit is very well designed that you practically have no troubles with the geometry.
I had built a Rostock V1 and I had to take care of geometry troubles, true.
However, these issues were fixed with V2. I already had built two Rostocks MAX V2, and both are geometrically correct. The precission/acurracy is great!
Hello All , i was started with 3d printing last year oktober , with delta Kossel mini.
i build it bigger so the heatbed (200x200mm) fitted on , i wanted to print abs ,pla , and all others .
Build volume 230mm in round and 260mm hight. Extruder is MK7-based-i tuned it up for flex and so on .
Hotend is the bowden with also tuned up cooling. also easy changing hotend .Look the picture.
I have to close around the printer with plynwood .the heat is gone to fast. Stil working on it .
Make absorbers under it ,and the printer is stady, i made also stabilators for the legs ,now he is stiff and goes on.
Finaly, the printer was fast builded and not expensive (€400).
The calibration was an other story :
Nothing on the internet was really helpfull.only an few people pionted in the right way.
like Rich Horn :Richrep. thanks to him , i made my own guide for the printer .calibration is not that hard .anymore.
Like driving an car ,you must learn to handle the machine ,every machine .and on you go.
The printer is fast .an friend has the mendel 90 ,well tuned and is 2x slower then mine .
And it is accurate.Mine level is high, 0,10mm with nozzle 0,30mm 1,75mm filament.
Our baby sleeps next door .and never woke up ,and the doors where open , silent it is .the vents makes most noise.
The only cons of the delta is ,For me , i can’t print with 2 hotends ,so with multycolourprints ,i programmed the gcode .
to an parking level and change filament then resume print , never had an problem with that ,it take only more time to
programm but this is also learned easy.
Next printer is the big mendel i think with makerbeam alu.and closed compleet .Like Richrep made one .
I still want to print in 2 or more colours in one run .
If somebody want : the guide i made for me is in the marlin software build in .
So i can send it to you as zip .Just ask . You can use it for other printers as well , it is an guide for handle and doing.
3D-printng is working with high precision machines , well tuned ,makes it every thing you want .
I have printed now with mine 2 delta’s kosselmidi 8 spools = 8KG. and only 600gr carvisch rest.in just 12 months.
is that good for an Newbee ?
thanks for reading all and keep up printing .!
The y-axis is stabilized using a plate similar to the plywood plate I used on my i3. I realize now that my response was unclear, but the point I was trying to make was that with a base plate I’d expect it to be on par with my i3. Sorry for the confusion.
As for cables, it really depends on how you manage the wiring and whether you use a RAMPS, Printrboard, etc. I use a Printrobard so there are no seperate motor controller modules and minimal wiring.
Nice write up and cool mod on your delta. I’ll definitely be interested in that guide. Pretty good on your 8kg I’m on 14kg in 8 month
hello elmuchacho, i have setup by github the files from the guide .
you can download it there .: GitHub - MD3DD/Calibrationguide-Delta-and-others: An guide for calibrate the delta and other printers ,it is written in the Marlin ,for direkt working proces . 1
cheers md3dd
