I have an XYZPrinting Da Vinci 1.0 and have been working on printin an ideal Marvin with it. I initially ran into a lot of problems with the supports destroying the quality of the print, but managed to get a fully unsupported print with a new cartridge. The only problem now is that the ring doesn’t seem to completely form (as seen in the attached files). I’m printing in excellent quality with medium density (30%), slow printing speed, and default layer height for that quality. Does anyone happen to know a good way to fix this problem without using supports? Thanks!
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Maybe my post on Marvin learnings can help although not completely informative.
I would reposition the Marvin whilst printing dependent on the location of the fan.
Hm… Thanks! I’ll try to rotate it and reprint it.
Well, it doesn’t look like turning it 90 degrees helped (I lowered the layer height, too), but I’ll try 180 and 270. Thanks!
180 degrees didn’t work either…
Alas, it seems that 270 degrees of rotation have failed, as well. Any other suggestions?
Here come my usual suspects: @key23d @James_2 @ProdPoint any ideas from you guys?
Cheers!
key23d
August 29, 2014, 12:34pm
8
I really couldn’t tell what the problem is. Maybe use a different slicer?
Kind regards, Guy
key23d
August 29, 2014, 12:47pm
9
Another suggestion: what would happen if you printed two Marvins in the same print layer by layer and not one by one.
It could be the temperature or cooling.
Kind regards, guy
Hi Ac2zoom,
I’m not familiar with your machine but I can certainly help.
First of all could you tell me what material you are using and give me a number for the speed?
Based on your previous posts the temperature change you’ve stated are very dramatic, 180 - 270.
180 is the lowest you would go for PLA and 270 the higthest for ABS.
It’s usually a matter of a 5C degree change to optain ideal viscosity and therefore print quality.
Ps: Support is not needed to print Marvins
No expert on that machine but it is printing but your hot end is melting it during the printing (so it is sagging and then printing a blob.
If you are just printing one then you need your hot end as low as possible to still print - say 205 for PLA BUT this needs a slow print or the filament can’t extrude quickly enough. The low temp helpw with the eyelids and the ring.
in the slicer you should also tell it not to dwell on small layers too long - to give them a chance to cool.
make sure your fans are good and pointing at the plastic.
Maybe start by printing two as then the layer cooling issue is not a problem - it looks like you are going a bit fast and hot to me.
James
alpha3d
December 12, 2014, 6:20am
12
Here are the solutions that helped me solve this problem. I have (4) DaVinci’s xyz 1.0, so I’ve felt your pain. Stock, they have no controls for xy rate, bed or extruder temperature, fans, or most of the standard fixes. However, there’s hope
Clean the glass very well.
Import 4 marvins into to XYZware (I suggest getting better pre-slicer software): Place one Marvin at about 1.5" from each corner. This forces the printer extruder to wait between each layer. (The plastic cools when the extruder is not close and becomes far more load bearing.)
Use these settings:
normal shells
30% density
standard speed
Print with the door open. This helps with the overhangs and the melt holes, It will also clean up the bridges between the legs.
Hope this is helpful to other DaVinci users. All about these printers, a little creativity and they become (not so little) mean machines.
KDan
January 7, 2015, 2:14am
13
My DaVinci is no longer stock (never was really - I dumped the original firmware right out of the box), but I can still tell you what the problems are and how to fix it.
If you are using the original firmware and XYZware, about the only thing you can do is print a 4 to 6 of them at once. The DaVinci has no dedicated layer fan that can be controlled by G-codes generated by your slicer. The extruder cooling fan just runs willy-nilly and there is no way to selectively cool a very small layer. The result is that the hook on top will become a melted blob because there is no time for each layer to cool.
However, if you are running custom firmware and Repetier host, you have more options. Slic3r allows you to generate g-code that will automatically slow down the printer as the layer time decreases. I had my lower speed limit set to 10mm/sec. I’ve gone as low as 5mm/sec, but there is really no further benefit in going that slow. There is also a setting in Slic3r called Z-lift in the retraction settings section. This will raise the hot end off the the part briefly between each layer. This also helps. If you are really wanting to get the best possible small layer cooling, you will need a layer cooling fan that can be briefly switched to a high speed on small layers. This is possible with the custom firmware by reconfiguring the extruder fan as the layer cooling fan in the firmware source code and re-compiling. Obviously, these are somewhat advanced tactics - but they are documented if you are willing to roll up your sleeves.
The DaVinci 1.0 has huge potential, and can be made equal or even better than printers costing 3x to 4x as much. Here is the first Marvin I printed out on mine @ 200 microns. No support material, no raft, no brim, no z-lift. The only thing I did was to enable the auto speed limiting on small layers. I did spend a few minutes with a scalpel cleaning up a few “hairs”.
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KDan
January 12, 2015, 1:13pm
14
Here’s a trick of mine that you can try if you have a CAD program. I actually haven’t used in on Marvin, but have successfully used it on other similar small parts. This should work for both stock and Repetier firmware.
Create a little cube in your CAD software that is 25.4mm (1 inch) high (the same as Marvin). Width and depth are not as important, but you can make them the same as the height if you like. Hollow it out so that the base of the cube is open. Model it so that the ceiling and walls of the cube are 5mm thick. The 5mm part is important because that is roughy the height of the “hook” on the top that melts from not having enough time to cool between layers.
Place this cube alongside Marvin when you setup your print.
What happens is that most of the layers of Marvin get a moderately increased cooling interval because the printhead is off printing the layers of the cube walls between layers.
When we come to the top 5mm (where the hook is), the printhead is spending a LOT more time on the cube because it not only has to print the walls, but it also has to print the infill. Most likely the infill on the ceiling of the cube is completely solid because of the 5mm thickness. The ceiling of the cube will be bridged, but we don’t care about that.
This gives each layer of the hook on Marvin much longer to cool between layers. It will work much better than printing multiple Marvins because it will cause the most delay between layers where it is most needed, without slowing down the job by an extreme amount.
Expect to still see some curling as the hook is printed. The are more advanced tricks to minimize the curling. One is a selectively (very briefly) applied layer cooling fan - which works good for PLA, but can be problematic for ABS. The best solution by far is a heated build chamber. Unfortunately, both of these are hardware features that the stock DaVinci doesn’t have.
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KDan
January 13, 2015, 2:54am
15
Update - I did try the 1 inch cube alongside Marvin. Here is the result still on the print bed with no cleanup. The hook was nicely formed. Unfortunately, the longer delay between layers made the overhang curling issue on the bottom layers a bit worse. Perhaps a higher bed temperature would help to reduce the curling.
