Prints no sticking to bed (left side)

[Wojtek90]

I got Flashforge Creator Pro From Amazon 3 weeks ago. Since then i have problems with printing.

O larger larger prints then test part they are not sticking to bed on left side. See picture. I level bed hundreds of time wit same result. I am printing only on right extruder (ABS 230 and 110 on the bed). Left draging my prints but this is another story. I try to resolve one problem at the time. Anybody can help me with it please.

[SOC3D]

How are you leveling the bed? Can you try printing just the first layer with no raft and take a picture?

[DR3D]

I use a white glue stick and no raft for all of my prints. Larger prints still have some adhesion problems. For the larger prints I print a bit hotter and slower. Around 234-237C @ 40mm/s

[cyclo]

I think thats something wrong with left side posiblly not heating it or Your bed isnt leveled. In phot is my flashforge creator pro 2016 got it from technologyoutlet printing abs with no raft no glue stick nothing… 240c with 110c bed

[Technologyoutle]

print on glass with 3dac spray and you will have no lifting

[3dprintwiz]

Hi,

Do not put sticker directly on the aluminum heated bed. Put it on glass and put some silicon strip underneath the glass to make it stable during print. Use also hairspray, aquanet maximum hold, 2 coats. On leveling the build plate, use just a sheet of bond paper, .10 mm thick. Hope this helps. Oh by the way, if you decide to use glass over build plate, you will need to print a spacer and install it on the z axis, there are a lot of version of this on thingiverse.

[SOC3D]

I’ve printed on those flash forge blue pads in ABS with no raft very successfully. Since they are a consumable/disposable item I’ve also swapped to glass and aquanet. But the core issue is not the build surface. Depending on your first layer settings, bed leveling method and material there are some simple changes that will allow your prints to stick.

[wrbehel]

If your left head is low and dragging across the part, that could be some of your problem. I had the same issue and ended up putting two pieces of paper under my left extruder to make them level. Glass and Aquanet also helped my process.

[Mark_Walker]

Make sure you are not using the print cooling fan and that you aren’t getting a draft through the handle. ABS needs to stay warm, it shrinks when it cools. Other than that, perhaps your left side isn’t as close to the nozzle.

[Wojtek90]

Hi

Thank you for answer.

I already printed with no raft with the same result.

[Wojtek90]

I am leveling bed as instruction said with blue sheet I got with the printer.

[Wojtek90]

Thank you for advice.

[Wojtek90]

Printer came with blue( I guess Teflon tape ) already glue to the bed. Should I remove it?

[3dprintwiz]

the blue sheet is .2mm thick, it is still better to use a sheet of bond paper .1mm thick. Try it, it works for me.

[SOC3D]

Can you stop the print with no raft and get a picture?

[SOC3D]

Of just the first layer.

[Mark_Walker]

It’s not teflon (which wouldn’t stick at all). It’s either polycarbonate or painters tape. It looks like the polycarbonate sheet in the picture.

I think the left side is either too low, or there’s cool air coming in the left side.

Keep in mind that ABS really wants to ruin large parts. It is trying really hard to curl because it is design to shrink out of injection molds. The best way to prevent the cooling is to use a heated chamber close to the Tg temperature of ABS (like in a StrataSys printer), but you can’t do that with a hobby printer because there are parts in the printer that will soften at that temp. So what we do with a FlashForge is have a heated bed and close it all up and hope for something around 50C in the chamber. Which isn’t really hot enough to prevent warping, but will sometimes work if you have good bed adhesion and your part isn’t too large. And no drafts because you want it to cool as evenly as you can manage.