Does anyone have experience printing T-Glase material?
We are having problems printing overhangs/ support with the T-Glase. If anyone has success printing overhangs with T-glase, please let me know. Thanks!
@ARC_Hub any photos of what is going wrong - these high temp filaments all need slightly different treatments for each feature - I don’t use this filament but similar (xt) and sometimes it needs a fan and sometimes it hates a fan and wants slow, other times it wants fast - in s3d you can control all of these over different layers which is really useful - but show some pictures of what is not working for you and each problem normaly has a different solution.
So far I only did some small experimental prints with t-glase and did not see any big problems with small overhangs. I did not use any support, but seeing how durable and “sticky” the material is i can imagine that removing supports from t-glase is quite a challenge. If you really need supports it’s probably best to experiment with simplify3d or another one of the advanced slicers that allow more temperature control and try to print the interface between support and model at a different (lower?) temperature and slower speed to make it less sticky.
As for general overhang-printing, thats something usually boiling down to your settings for air-/fanspeed, movement speed and temperature. Getting these settings to work on your specific printer definately needs some tuning and experimentation with different settings to find something that works, but again, depening on the model it can be difficult or almost impossible to get everything tuned in for a “perfect” bridge.
BTW, i usually print t-glase at around 235°C (60°C bed) and a bit slower than ABS/PLA.
T-glass works best with thicker layer heights. I have actually had good luck with supports removing and leaving no after effects. I have printed a fair amount, a couple spools or so and found my ideal temp for printing is 228C. I typically use no layer fan, except for very small prints that would otherwise turn to a small pile of melted filament. I also run at a slower speed, on my Rostock it is 22mm/sec where ABS is typically 30.
Your threads are sagging because you are printing way too hot (Tglase MAX temp is 248 for reprap printing, I can also see you are under or over extruding judging from your layer lines.I don’t have any when I print, it’s solid because I set the extrusion perfectly by averaging 20 different points on the filament down to .005mm …you are also printing your perimeter too fast. The first time you calibrate it, you’ll need to re calibrate the platform height too. Too close and it will pull up the extrusion behind it as it travels, it will sort of curl upwards. Too high and it won’t stick because it doesn’t press into the platform. Remember that part. A good first layer is the key here when you have it calibrated.
One more thing i mised, max layer height on a .4 for tglase is .32, not .35… .35 is for a .5mm nozzle. It said 70-80% of the nozzle size, not the setting. You just increase the setting in addition to the layer height to widen the line
Perfect bridges take some tuning but ive found, once you measure your filament all over and average the numbers out, set bridges to 5-6mm/s and it works every time. If you over extrude by .005 though, it will show up slightly. Also try setting bridge flow to 98%. It doesnt seem to like gaps more than 10mm across. So scale infill accordingly. Also make sure the extrusion line just before infill starts, is slowed down (you can do this for that layer only, in your settings or use a script like “Tweak at Z height” (in cura)… If you move too fast just before bridging, (the difference in speed is too far apart) It will over extrude the pressure into the gaps. Low heat can do this too as that also increases pressure.
