Is there anyone in the twin cities that can repair and upgrade a printer?
Nprint
January 25, 2017, 9:14am
2
Absolutely what do you need fixed and upgraded?
I’m west of the metro and can help. What’s needed?
Hi - what is the printer and what’s the issue with it?
Robo r1 plus. I just installed the e3d v6 and the hot end seems to be blocked. The boden tube seemed to move so not sure if that caused the clog. Would need that fixed i would like to add 2 more fans to the set up. Software wise need the bed leveling fixed and adjusted. Is printing about an inch off center but i guess there is a way to program it to level faster as well.
What brand of printer.What seems to be wrong with it
Robo r1 plus. I just installed the e3d v6 and the hot end seems to be blocked. The boden tube seemed to move so not sure if that caused the clog. Would need that fixed i would like to add 2 more fans to the set up. Software wise need the bed leveling fixed and adjusted. Is printing about an inch off center but i guess there is a way to program it to level faster as well.
Im in cottage grove what part of the cities are you from sorry i didnt scrow to c u posted before what i asked my phones been having issues
Andover. Have no problem driving the printer out to get it fixed
Their should be a clip so the bowdon tube wont move also the firmware is where u write where u want it to autolevel positions do you have the firmware downloaded and u only need 3 spots to get a plane
I did put the clip in but when i went to take the filament out it pulled the tube up to the gear area so i was going to tear it down to inspect but i would prefer just to take it to someone that knew what they were doing
Nprint
January 25, 2017, 2:46pm
12
That shouldn’t be an issue, I’m in shakopee. I work up in ep. Shouldn’t take too long on the healing bench.
When u install the heatblock u nèed to tighten it when its hot
e3dV6 is not a good hot end for Bowden setup. The e3d Lite6 is better. The reason for this is that the PTFE tube does not go all the way to the nozzle in the V6. In the lite6 the PTFE tube extends all the way through the hot end. Look at these cross sections:
http://3d-grottan.se/image/cache/catalog/products/hotends/e3d/lite6/dabec7c9-4a9a-4640-8a6b-8564f30cffdc-500x500.jpg
The issue has to do with retraction. For Bowden setup, you need to have a lot of retraction. The problem is that it will get caught on the edge of the nozzle as the filament comes back down. Over time, material will build up along that edge and impede filament flow and also cause the PTFE tube to pull out (unless you have the Bowden attachment for the V6).
Your best bet is to fork out the $40 for a Lite6. We use this hot end exclusively on all our printers. The V6 works best with direct drive as you don’t have to have as much retraction. And unless you’re going to print something exotic like polycarbonate, the Lite6 will work flawlessly for 90% of the filament out there.
I can’t speak to the v6 lite, but I can say that as someone who has printed hundreds if not thousands of hours with multiple e3D v6s and volcanos in a variety of heater block, nozzle sizes, bowden and direct setups, they work great as a bowden setup. The critical component is getting everything setup correctly and securely.
The bowden tube not extending down to the nozzle is one of the defining differentiators of the v6 from the v6 lite. It’s also what allows the v6 to attain higher temps and thus wider variety of materials.
The v6 and v6 lite have different end goals in mind and thus have a different design to accomodate that. It’s not a matter of the v6 lite necessarily being a better design or fixing flaws with the v6 itself.
I don’t disagree that the V6 is a good hot end. But if you are not going over about 280c, it’s not necessary. The Lite6 is half the price and can print pretty much any filament most people print. As someone who has printed thousands (if not tens of thousands of hours with the Lite6, I can attest to it’s value.
My Bowden setup issues were very similar to those the OP sited. Agree completely that setup is critical. The issue I was having had to do with the PTFE tube not getting seated properly against the metal tube that attaches to the heater block. It was almost impossible to get this right and as a result the gap caused the filament to hang on the edge of that metal tube during retraction. Considering the pressure you’re already dealing with in a Bowden setup, this added resistance was not good. Most likely the issue had to do with the clamp for the Bowden tube at the top of the hot end as well as ensuring the PTFE tube is perfectly square.
I have not gone back to address anything with Bowden setups since our direct drive setup is so reliable and easy to use. This thread has inspired me to take another look.