if your using makerware make sure you have yoursettings set to high, getting a quality pint out of marven is tricky. when i did it i ran my flasf forge pretty slow 60mm for print speed and 70 for travel. i also dove into the miricle.json file and turned on dynamic speed. you can get to this when you make a custom profile. hope this helps
Skip to main content
Try increasing the number of shells in settings. I have also found that lowering/raising the temperature slightly helps. Also adjusting these settings with different color PLA makes a difference. I have found different colors have different roughness under the same settings, so adjusting for color makes a difference. Slowing down speed also helps as well as room temperatures…I use a space heater sometimes to keep constant temp.
Thanks for all of the replies! I am using an original replicator. The settings that I used for the PLA plastic are: infill: 10%, shells: 2, layer height: 0.1 mm, heated build platform is set to off, print speed: 30mm/s, travel speed: 100mm/s
Definitely take a look at mods for part cooling fans, specifically ones that use a centrifugal blower fan.
a.) “Use the right tool for the right job”. Print using a different printer technology (i.e. SLA/SLS, etc) if you need high tolerance and great surface finish. I have printed Marvin on a Form1+ and they come out beautiful. Form (i.e. SLA) does an excellent job at surface finish without post process, compared to FDM/FFF printers. Personally I use thermoplastic printers for mechanical parts, etc. Form et al performs very well with “organic” rather than parametric objects. All print techs have pros & cons.
b.) You could try a chemical (e.g. acetone vapor bath, or XTC-3D) or physical post process (e.g. sanding, precise heat) with your material … or if you don’t have access to a resin or powder printer, you could outsource it to a bureau like shapeways or other 3rd party service. I know this defeats the purpose of your inquiry, but it’s an option.
Why shouldn’t they consider ABS? I’ve had much more success using ABS over PLA with my Replicator Dual First Gen.
Take a look at the Sailfish firmware for the Replicator (http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v77-v47.php 1) or search in Thingiverse. You might benefit from expertmenting with hot end temperature during a build.
Take a look at the Sailfish firmware for the Replicator (http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v77-v47.php) or search in Thingiverse. It maybe beneficial to experiment with different hot end temperatures during a build.
Sailfish’s filament odometer is also a helpful tool for gauging whether the last several meters on a spool will complete a build.
My prints are really marvelous using PHA-PLA from colorFabb and when I have to print parts that need to be tougher, I consider XT and XT-CF20.
PHA-PLA is biodegradable and XT is foodsafe which is not the case of ABS. Moreover, with ABS, you will have to deal with warping, which can be very hard to handle for large prints without a heated bed. PHA-PLA warping effect is almost null and is very easy to override.
ABS is made of petroleum… not very good for the planet…
PHA-PLA is made of corn (or other vegetables).
I am not telling ABS is not a way to have good prints. I just think that there is another way.
Hi everyone. Interesting to read this, I have to say. I am a beginner in printing.
Nevertheless i learned that the retraction length can be a little low as deafult.
I have increased the value to 1,2 mm printing 3DBenchy with better resoult.
/Svante
Something i did not read here, is the fact that small parts need the setting “minimum layer time”. So in makerware you could make a custom profile where you set min layertime to 10 sec. Now your layer can cool down a bit, so it has the needfull strenght for receiving an other layer.