I can’t figure this one out. I’ve read plenty of different suggestions and tried many, but I continue to experience warping, particularly when printing with PETG.
My setup:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus
Nozzle: .4 mm (Micro Swiss, all-metal) @ 245° C
Layer height: .2 mm
Initial layer speed: < 20 mm/s
Wanhao heated bed @ 80° C w/ hairspray put down before heating
1.75 mm eSUN solid black PETG
Printing with a 40-line brim
0% part cooling fan
The filament lays down okay and will be fine until about an inch or so has been printed, then it’s warping. The room it’s in tends to stay around 24-25° C while printing and I don’t have any other fans blowing air around the room.
I’ve tried varying the bed temp from 50 - 83° C - it yields varying degrees of warp, but it always warps. I have a glass sheet on the way to try but I’d really like to be able to print on the “default” Wanhao surface (I don’t necessarily mind glue or hairspray). As far as I can tell, both the nozzle’s and the bed’s temps are consistent to +/- 1-2° C.
don’t know about petg, but I print with ABS and sometimes it warps if the printer is not inside a box. That way the print doesn’t cool down too fast.
Also, your first layer can be more flat, try to reduce the space so the first layer have better adhesion.
When I print with PETG (or even any other material) I always use glass with some hairspray on it, for PET my bedtemp is at 60°C and 240°C for the hotend. I even use my cooling at 85% while my printspeed is at 50mm/s and movement at 75mm/s.
From what I can see on the picture it looks like the first layer isn’t close enough to the bed and the lines printed are not overlapping each other very well. first try to relevel your bed and put it a bit closer to the nozzle, I always use a piece of standard A4 paper to do this.
I also had a similar issue when I started to print PETG, try to set the extrusion width a bit smaller than the nozzle size. As i’m not sure what slicer you use, when using S3D you can set the extrusion width to 0,38 wile the nozzle size is at 0,4mm, this helps me to make sure the lines are properly melted in each other.
tks for that knowledge!, I will remember!, not printing in PETG for the moment but maybe in the future!.
Just a couple of one questions… you said that if you print too close to the bed it can bond too well… so I guess is hard to remove it from the bed later. But then you say that your way it’s also hard to remove.
so, which way is less hard to remove?
if you print in a glass plate, doesn’t it react like ABS and sticks out when the glass is cold?
@Gerardo_Oliva I once lost a glass bed to a PETG print when I printed directly onto the glass. I welded itself so well that it broke away shards of glass on removal.
The blue tape and glue stick/3DLac method is a pain to remove, but it’s easy enough to actually do and has little chance of damaging the bed.
When i first started to use PET filaments i had the same issue, the filament was welded to the bed and while removing it some shards of glass came along, yet i still print my PET filament on glass all the time, the only difference when i use PET is that I put an additional layer of 3D lac on it, since than I didn’t had any issues with the PET welding to the glass anymore.
I print a lot of PETG. I use almost exclusively one of my MK2 printers with a PEI bed. Some tricks to help reduce over adhesion are a spray and wipe with original Windex. Also I have actually wiped the bed with the palm of my hand!
I usually try to remove the print as it is cooling somewhere around 40-50 degrees.
I don’t recall having warping issues but I also almost never use a cooling fan.
One main thing with PETG is it does not like being squished. Do your bed prep right and then almost let the extrusions just lay down onto the bed.
