Karl,
Your input helps a lot! If I can make P3Steel version print color filaments like “Original” Prusa i3, that sounds much better.
It might be that I’m asking too much, I’m still new to this but I’m willing to learn, could you direct me to some sources of information where I can find out what do I need to apply to KitPrinter3D Prusa i3 (filament sensors and etc) so that it prints color filaments just like “Original” Prusa i3?
I’ve done some looking into it myself lately. There really isn’t much information on Prusa’s system for color changing, but as far as I can tell it really is not any more than a modified version of Marlin with a rewritten M600 command. That means you don’t need any extra hardware, just a board that can run Marlin (which is basically any Reprap board outside of the fancier 32-bit ones). Just install their firmware (which should be hosted on Github somewhere) onto your printer and you’ll have the exact same functionality.
I must admit I don’t have any experience on any Prusa printer, but look at this print: Talk Manufacturing | Hubs 28
If your good with machines, then either way is the same. Either way, you will still need to learn the firmware so that you can do upgrades. I have added autolevel to my own, and am adding the filament sensor now. I sell the Geeetech Prusas myself in aluminum and acrylic. And I see the returns for other companies. Very few mechanical issues. Usually just can’t do the firmware. Most of the time people mess up and can’t do it. Which is why I sold mine with tech support. I ha e been helping people from Thailand ( gotta love the fact that Thailand called me for customer service when its usually the other way around.) to Israel, to Mexico, and Canada, and many all over the USA I have seen people who are picky and people who are not. You get what you pay for. If you Google “MK8 autolevel” then you will see one of many videos. And my design for my autolevel that I made for my printer which does not have servo options. I could add it but chose this route instead to make it an easy mid for all. The point is that you can see what I did to my own Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B, Sanguinololu board 1.4. Now if you can get a printer with tech support based in USA, good luck. Many know a few things but never have all the answers and in those cases, its returned. Here is my WordPress. https://georgeroblesjr.wordpress.com 5 So you can see my slic3r configs that I share as well as my own firmware setup. Most like it set up for you. So this way people can find firmware version setup for the printers I use and sell. Lulzbot taz 5 is really nice. Ultimaker really nice. Seemecnc nice too. The thing is all these printers are more money because they come with the support some people just need. And last point, you will notice that different filament and different colors will behave differently. That’s because most use their own blend of material. So use a higher flow rate and others like no flow, as is the case for abs. You will have to fine tune oftetn if changing filament often. Try a temp torture test and do it for each color you have. This way you can nlknow how it will behave before you try to print with it and you will know at what temps.
Hi, the first one: Easy color 3D printing on new original Prusa i3 1.75 mm (video) - Original Prusa 3D Printers 7 is kit actualy sold by original designer of Prusa - Josef Prusa (@josefprusa), so in sense it is Original.
I bought one and so far no problems and their support is rather proactive (if they know there is some defect / potential malfunction) they will let you know once first time issue is reported.
I did not bought the kit via prusaprinters.org 2 but rather Original Prusa 3D printers directly from Josef Prusa 5
At minimum sources for firmware are included in download on Downloads | Prusa Knowledge Base 6
Hi Karl
where r u located
im looking for someone who has made prusa i3 in dubai
awaiting ur reply thanx
I am in Maryland in the United States. Sorry I couldn’t have been of more help.
oh ok i c, thanx for ur reply,
Karl,
I am in MD too, and going to be building a P3STEEL soon with my 2 sons.
All the kits appear to be from Spain, and am at the point of just sourcing my own parts, not sure I want to do this for my 1st build.
I was going to mig or tig weld the frame to make sure it is solid and stays square.
I want a rock solid extruder/hot end and don’t want to skimp there. Is the MK8/9 being offered with the kits good, or just marginable? I was looking at one of the geared such as Bulldog, or is the MK8/( fine for ABS PLA ?
I have heard mixed reviews of “printed” parts, I see molded pieces are available,
I have no problem with mechanical and electronics (drilling, welding, soldering, fabbing) what is your suggestion? Kit or source own parts?
Thanks,
Nick
Hi Nick! Glad to see another P3Steel soon to join the ranks.
Megapost ahead.
I sourced my own parts, mainly to customize it for my own purposes. I already had a direct drive single extruder Prusa i3, and wanted a bowden dual extruder version as well as 8mm leadscrew driven Z axes. If you’re fine with the kit’s options and can’t save much from sourcing your own parts, I don’t see any reason you shouldn’t use the kit.
I wouldn’t suggest welding the frame together. You may need to disassemble some parts of the frame in the future for tweaks, upgrades, or replacements, and honestly, the default frame is more than solid enough. It’s already cut in a pattern where the frame elements slot into each other for extremely rigid 90 degree angles. I don’t feel uncomfortable at all standing on it while it’s printing.
As for extruders, my MK7 on my Prusa i3 and my MK8-based extruders on my P3Steel have both been quite reliable and have produced excellent prints (though keep in mind the MK8s are mounted behind the “shoulders” and not on the carriage, so the stresses may be different), and the MK9 appears to be the same basic design with minor differences. It will probably work well. The Bulldog extruder does look to be a better design in terms of torque and precision, but the two issues I see with it are availability and the added weight of a gearbox (the X carriage would be more limited in its speed, assuming you’re using a direct drive extruder). Also, you may have to design custom mounts for the extruder on the carriage or anywhere else if you’re doing a bowden setup. If you’re willing to deal with all of that the Bulldog could be a worthwhile upgrade.
EDIT: I should mention that you’ll likely experience a failure with extrusion at some point during the printer’s life, but more than likely it will come from a jam either inside the heatbreak or in the nozzle rather than the extruder. Because of that, it’s pretty important to have a few spare nozzles and even a few spare heatbreaks at your disposal (try to opt for the Teflon-lined kind unless you can afford the highly polished E3D heatbreaks, since cheap non-lined heatbreaks will jam with PLA).
Printed parts have never been a problem for me. The three printed components necessary for the P3Steel (two X ends and the X carriage) have barely any stress placed on them, and assuming the printer prints them well, with a decent number of perimeters and 50% or so infill, you’d be hard-pressed to break them. Also, I haven’t seen any molded parts that offer X belt tensioning braced by the X rods rather than the Z rods, which is almost critical if you want a proper, tight belt tension but want to avoid bending the Z rods.
There is the option of replacing the X ends and carriage with steel laser-cut parts, which eliminate plastic parts entirely from the frame and use them only for inconsequential things such as the endstop holders. I haven’t seen a need for that, though.
There’s no real need to overbuild it. It’s already a solid design and will already last a long time even after taking a beating. Just maintain it and treat it well, maybe do a few upgrades once in a while, and it will do everything you need it to for years to come.
Hope this helps!
-Karl
Karl,
Thanks for the reply.
I did not find any “One” P3Steel Kit that had everything I wanted, but at the same time need a kit to “see how it works” the 1st time. That being said, I will build it, then probably modify to suit my needs/desires. Most all the P3Steel kits are from Spain, only 2-3 ship out of Europe. The makefront kit was 500.00 without standalone electronics, and the zip ties really turned me off.
I ended up going with a HTA3D kit,
I’ll let you know how it goes.
Nick
BTW I am in WV just over the border from Hancock, MD.
I am looking at the kit on Amazon for the Original Prusa i3 3D Printer kit from Josef Prusa. How can I tell if the frame is metal? It appears to be so but it doesn’t mention it anywhere. I am interested in printing O Scale (1:48) details for model railroading. this will be my first 3D printer.
Thanks
Jay Beckham
Berkeley Springs, WV
