6

What I mean is look at the threads in the slicer (yellow view) and then again once you hit prepare to print and see how they look. Do they look the same as the actual print.

Also you could post the STL and we could try it.

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I am using hatchbox filament and yes I had the fan on 100%. I have always had overhang issues with this printer no matter what settings I try or supports I use. I was even printing slower than you.

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Here is the thingiverse stl. Knurling bolt and nut by akira3dp0 - Thingiverse Others print it out no problem. I have something wrong. I’ll take another look at the part in simplifiy.

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Here are photos of what the file looks like before being ready to print and when being ready to print. They look fine to me. I think its something with my printer.
sim_thread.png sim_thread1.png

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Were you using the fan with ABS? I wouldn’t normally use any fan with ABS, although to be honest I can’t think of any effect with the fan that would affect only that part of the thread.

It’s as though the first few layers of the upper halves are not reaching the edge. What’s your fill setting? I can’t recall exactly, but I believe my fill was pretty high for this bolt, 60% or higher. It may be if you’re using a lower fill that when the upper part comes to lay down there’s not enough “support” close to the edge and the filament shrinks in a little, as it tends to on curves if not well adhered to the surface/layer beneath it.

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Nope, no fan with ABS just the PLA. I have tried the fan with ABS before with some success. Which fill setting exactly?? There are so many on Simplify. Which tab is it under? Thanks

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Looks ok. I am trying one now since I actually need one. I wish we could do these in different sizes and not just different lengths.

These are really handy.

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Are you talking about infill % if so it was only 20%.

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Yea, I’d go a lot higher than 20% infill. What perimeter settings are you using? Again, I believe the last time I printed a thread I used 3 or 4 perimeters…

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Well, I printed it and put it together since I needed it actually and forgot to look at the threads! It went together without and effort so it was decent.

I printed in black ABS with pretty much defaults. I think 3 shells and slowed it a bit. I’ll go take it apart later and have a look.

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Hi @wirlybird I use NUT JOB | Nut, Bolt, Washer and Threaded Rod Factory by mike_mattala - Thingiverse

You’ll need a copy of openscad (http://www.openscad.org/) but it’s dead simple to use. You can design your own nuts, rods, bolts whatever, any size…

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Increase your infill to over 25%, and lower your temperature as far as you can.

You might want to try with the ABS fan on, just as an experiment. If you dont get warping as a result of that, you should be good.

18

Hello!
I’m a student trying to innovate within the growing 3-D printing industry and I was wondering if anybody could fill out this quick survey to help me gather some data. Any responses are helpful, Thanks!

https://docs.google.com/a/d155.org/forms/d/15aMr8mPJYWNf4cVked2GQYF0S49rLq9kr6fmUGu8x_I/edit

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Cool. So you do it in Openscad and not with the customizer? I’ll check it out and probably be back with questions.

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4 top and bottom and 3 perimeter.

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@wirlybird yeah, the “nut job” file you download is an OpenScad file, so you need to open it in Openscad, then adjust the settings in the text file on the left of the screen. Looks complex, but for most things you only need to change whether you’re building a nut, thread or bolt (the “type” setting, around line 28), then a couple of numbers. You only need to edit the bits of the file that are relevant to what you’re building, so if you set the type to nut, you only need to edit the figures under the “nut” section.

I use it all the time; I make “proper” nuts and bolts but also use it to generate rods and nuts that I merge into models.

22

Cool, I’ll look at it this holiday, I seem to have a very long weekend coming up! Working on getting Slic3r running on the FFCP and messing with the MK2.

23

:(( Still waiting on my Mk2… Tried Slic3r and just got horribly lost… What benefits does it have over Simplify?

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Have you talked to them to get an idea of when? I talked to them a bunch and politely pushed to get it going!! they are really helpful but remember the time difference. When I was talking to them (via chat) it was the middle of the night there so they had limited access to info.

Slic3r is intimidating. Prusa packages a custom version of slicer for use with the MK2 and it does some nice prints. I have had pretty good luck with S3D also. They have a FFF file for it but their emphasis is on Slic3r.

Slic3r is a bit of a pain if you want to connect via USB. You have to use an additional program, Pronterface. Kind of a pain. Export from Slic3r straight to SD card is pretty straight forward.

Slic3r is probably more powerful with much more fine control over the model printing but S3D would be the more glamorous solution.

I am getting Slic3r running with the FFCP to mainly learn it since I am very familiar with the FFCP. Finally got a test cube to print and the result was definitely acceptable.

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@wirlybird interesting, I may need some private conversations with you once my Mk2 arrives… :slight_smile: Anyway, I guess we should stop hijacking this thread :slight_smile: