So I recently purchased my first 3D printer. A FF Dreamer. And so I also got Simplify 3D as well since I was spending far too much anyways…
I had a simple Gear I modeled and exported to STL and then converted to the G-Code.
Simplify 3D default settings for ABS. 230 extruder, 105 bed.
Loading filament works fine. During the print, it will print a “test line” along the front of the bed which seems to work fine and I assume is a means of clearing out material/impurities etc… But when it goes to print the first layer of the skirt/raft/part nothing happens except that the ABS starts to curl/ball around the extruder nozzle. Am I actually too far away from the bed? I’ve leveled numerous times, but maybe I’m not tight enough with my “paper” test? If so how much resistance should you have between the paper and nozzle?
This is more of a feel thing . My dreamer I need some resistance while my creator pro needs to not have any resistance.
trial and error
Are you levelling with the bed heated or cold, it makes a massive difference to me when printing ABS
Heat the unit up before leveling the bed, both extruder and heated bed. Get a normal sheet of printing paper. You should feel the paper dragging on the nozzle when you pull towards you. When you push away from you, it should bunch up slightly before sliding through.
itech
June 9, 2017, 3:46pm
5
I use Elmers gluestick on the bed, just a thin layer on my Dreamers, otherwise adhesion is difficult. Trick is that you have to apply the thin layer before the bed reaches 50°C otherwise anything hotter will create cement from the glue. You can also wipe the glue off with a slightly damp cloth once cooled too.
It will also remain tacky right up to 120°C too. But the other are correct, you have to level the bed hot first.
Hate to say spend more money, but I would suggest a glass plate kit for your machine, you can get a glass shop to cut a bunch of 235mmx154mmx3mm plates to fit that bed nicely and you’ll have a lot less problems with warping too, I got 20 plates for $30 bucks from a local glass shop. You can get the corners and shims from Thingiverse and it will make nice smooth prints.
Just my two cents.
I started initially cold. Then tried when heated as well. Just wondering as the filament wants to curl right up along the extruder nozzle. Aka it seems to rather stick to itself rather than to the bed.
That gonna suck having to depend on feel…
I had seen/read about the glue stick trick, but I thought that was usually to ensure adhesion consistently… When the first string is placed on the front it adheres well to the bed prior to the trying to place the first layer of the desired part. That is what confuses me…
I have no problems paying more for the printer and parts… Hell what’s $20 on $1000. I’d likely just buy the one right from FlashForge as it is a factory option. (Edit: And then notice that it is for the Creator, not Dreamer… Sigh)…
And your 2 cents is worth more than my No-Sense
itech
June 9, 2017, 4:09pm
9
Are you using default settings from S3D? You get a nice line at the front because extrusion is multiplied. I also turn on Skirt/Brim gives that extra level of certainty that I leveled properly.
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That’s why I don’t move my bed much with my creator pro. The process is much easier with the dreamer
Too far from the bed or temperature too low (try increasing +15 degrees). I think the first one.
OK. So I’m an idiot…
Turns out that during the initial script from Simplify3D sets the Tool 0 extruder to draw a line along the front edge of the bed… Lo and behold that line always printed. The actual component parts were calling up Tool 1 extruder to actually make the 3D printed object. Only issue? Only have filiament loaded into Tool 0… GD I’m an idiot sometimes (or most times according to my wife).
http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/50/73/31/3d_pri12.jpg
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itech
June 12, 2017, 7:55pm
13
A resolution is a resolution, welcome to 3D printing! We might as well be dogs the amount of time we spend chasing our tails around. Was glad to read you got this sorted out.
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