So basically the only software I should be tinkering with now is Autodesk 360(STL files) and ReplicatorG(Gcode, like the printers language)? So I don’t need Mesh Mixer unless I’m needing to refine or repair the prints correct?
Use the glue stick on the tape to improve adhesion of you bottom layer or raft to the print bed.
I use an IKEA table for mine, so it should hold up. Vibrations is only an issue when the head as to move back and forth a lot over a short range, i.e. really fine details or short sections on a print. if you plan your models right it won’t be much of an issue. If you get a lot of shaking you will likely as not fail the print anyway as the head can be thrown off (I’ve seen as much a 10mm shift before from it.)
Brands are a bit touchier. So filaments are harder or easier to get depending on your location. ColorFabb is good as is Proto-Pasta (though somewhat specialized.) My suggestion is to try out a variety of brands. I have had some good luck with eSun’s PLA.
As to Slicing, ReplicatorG is very basic but a nice one to start will. You can print gcode over USB but I wouldn’t. USB is slow and on long prints if your PC loses power, freezes, flutters, or goes to sleep and stops sending info of the USB the print fails. If the USB communications lag the print fails, basically any print longer than 15 minutes should be done with an SD card instead. RepicatorG has a way to save the gcode to x3g onto an SD card, (GPX lets you do this with Slic3r and other slicing programs, you will head a lot about Simplify3d but learn RepicatorG first it will help you trouble shot other slicers later.) x3g is the printer’s native command language and the FFCP comes with 2 or 4 gig SD card with several files including installation and set up instructions in PDF, you can use this card for printing x3g files as well.
