so far i found:
but to expensive and i would only need 1-2 liters, maybe even less as i’m not sure how much is needed
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1 Liter, but is that to much? how long will it last me is another way to ask the same question
I got mine from Amazon UK, the orange smell is OK (there are a lot worse scents) but it’s darn powerful. It’s the goo that’s the worst, as you say. A year or so ago I fitted a new sheet then immediately destroyed it (screwed up the z calibration and burned a hole right in the centre) so had to go through the whole process again the same day. Not happy.
It’s really quite amazing that after so many years now of domestic 3D printing that there’s no absolute best print bed solution. I like the idea of magnetic attachment, but that’s not easy to find for all printers, and there’s dozens of print surface providers. Hopefully one day soon someone will invent something that is just the total answer and we’ll all end up using it.
agreed on that we need to something that is good for all materials
i wonder how ultimaker gets abs to stick or their bed, all i know is that they use glass
btw… how many replacements do to you get from 1 liter of D-LIMONENE?
and would you mind posting an amazon link? no rush
i also found it at rs components: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printing-parts-accessories/9181091
its listed as a hips solvent but should it not be the same thing?
Changing the PEI sheet on a MK2 is a breeze. Heat it and peel it off. For the glue that remains I fold paper towels and moisten with acetone and let sit on the bed a few minutes and scrap off (plastic spatula of course) repeat.
I have tried printbite a few times, on the MK2 and on a Creator Pro, and never got it to work ok. Finally got to where I could get PLA or ABS first layer to actually lay down and print but even PLA would start to lift at the corners after time.
Once support got to the point of things like add corner ears to the print, use ABS slurry etc. to get the plastic to stick and not warp I was like why? What’s the point? Buy your expensive product just so I can use the traditional methods of adhesion anyway.
On the creator Pro’s I am working with the BuildTak Flex system. So far it is pretty good. Great for PLA and ABS works well but messes with the BuildTak sheet. They are addressing this.
I have applied a PEI sheet to their spring steel flex plate and this is working nicely.
After the ABS part cools I can flex it and it really help the release.
well orballoprinting.com 3 have also released the mk52 bed but funny enough no flex plates
i do have their “clone” of the mk42 and it has been a dream to deal with
but well there are now 2 alternatives, printbite and buildtak
Personally on a MK42 for a Mk2(s) printer with the PINDA I’d stick with PEI, pun intended!
Learn how it works and what temps etc. it likes for your situation (not implying you don’t know your stuff) and it will serve you well as a straight forward bed material.
I ran PEI on glass on my Creator Pro style printers and it worked great.
I have converted 3 of them to the BuildTak flex system and I am using PEI now on one mainly with ABS and the results have been very good.
Being able to flex it a bit to help the ABS print release has been a joy!
i dont have a problem with PEI as such, its more getting the parts off without making marks or scratches on the surface
I print PLA only, no ABS, its stinks, gives me a day long hangover etc.
PETG for some reason covers the silicone sock rather quickly, not sure why. and i have to clean it off after each print… But yes its an alternative
My first test for getting parts off without making marks etc will be to get a frezze spray and give it an ultra short burst, its said that it should be enough to release without the need for tools
if that does not work i will try printbite… some might not be lucky but well it might be that i’m lucky
experimenting is what you gain knowledge from 
I never have issues with PLA on PEI and getting the prints off. It is pretty easy to mark up the sheet though if not really careful.
One thing is that the live Z could be just a bit low and squishing the first layer a little too much.
If PETG is accumulating on the nozzle while printing then that is usually that the extrusion multiplier is a tad to high. Example … go from 0.97 to 0.96 and see how it does.
any chance you got and tested the printbite yet?
Hi @Odense3DPrint no, it’s not arrived yet, annoyingly. Their website did say there’d be some delay, but it’s been a couple of weeks now. I’ll chase them!
at least they are honest… “some delay”