7

There was no icon showing up in my browser, i can rightclick the area below your post, i guess i just can’t see the icon but everything else is normal. I am not using kisslicer, thats why i asked for pictures.

My first thought is, that you are either printing too hot or have overextrusion, you should try to adjust your flowrate and print at ~230°C if you use ABS.

If you can print marvin in another material and adjust the cameras focus, black and clear materials are difficult to inspect and blurred pictures make inspecting even difficulter.

-Marius

8

Hey @Boelle , I’ve converted your pictures into one picture! I hope it’s not too tiny to see! Add some pics of the Marvin in the comments too! You have a pretty good Marvin but you’re awesome to reach for real perfection!

9

what pictures? on this post? it was not pictures but my kisslicer settings… i just had to upload them as .jpg… people will have to save them as .ini

10

oh… my settings as a pic…

maybe if you could make a line on top where each file starts? just so people know what settings file starts where

11

Thanks a lot… will try and take some better pics… but the ihpone cam has a hard time to focus… maybe my girlfriends samsung will do better

12

Maybe keep more distance between the phone and the print, i guess the smartphone can’t focus on such a near object.

-Marius

13

i use PLA only and i extrude at 175… 180 for for first layer…

settings are now showing up as pics… will do some better pics shortly

14

Some better pics… the white marlin is an old one i had in my scrap box… it shows the problem more clearly… i even included a photo of the advanced marvin found on thingiverse… that one came out as it should thou not as detailed as shown on thingiverse but that is due to my printers capabilities (which is not good enough)

20150326_232128[1].jpg
20150326_232128[1].jpg2560×1536 834 KB
20150326_232413[1].jpg
20150326_232413[1].jpg1536×2560 869 KB
20150326_232224[1].jpg
20150326_232224[1].jpg2560×1536 819 KB
20150326_232212[1].jpg
20150326_232212[1].jpg2560×1536 893 KB
20150326_232150[1].jpg
20150326_232150[1].jpg2560×1536 869 KB
20150326_233413[1].jpg
20150326_233413[1].jpg2560×1536 1.01 MB

15

I guess you could lower the extrusion muliplier by a little bit and maybe increase cooling (if you can only cooling while the printer prints the lower part of the ear and the upper part of the helmet => the overhangs). Increasing the print temperature and lowering printspeed (try to make the printer spend 10-12sec per layer) should increase layerbonding and therefore the layers should be less visible. I had most success with 10-15mm/s at 203°C with 0,05mm layer height.

Do you have any colored PLA laying around ? It’s difficult to see stuff like small filament blobs on sharp edges, single strings from the first few overhang angles etc.

White or any intense color (with flashlight enabled on the smartphone) should give good pictures.

Since you print with PLA there should be no reqirement of such a giant brim, i have chosen two outlines of a skirt to get the printer extruding a little bit (so i can check, that the filament is loaded correctly without sacrificing the first layer) before the printer actually started with marvin.

If you can enable coasting and set it to 2,5mm (if you print at 190-200°C) this should also take away some blobs.

As i can see in the settings you have set the extrusion width to 0,35mm is .35 the diameter of the nozzle’s hole ? If thats the case you have to increase it a little bit, since the filament flows to the side so:

for .3mm nozzle choose .34 extrusion diameter

for .35mm nozzle choose .38/4mm extrusion diameter

etc.

-Marius

1 Like
16

i guess what you call extrusion multiplier is the flow tweak section in kisslicer? Cooling is at max all the time

print time is set to 10s each layer

is assume that black is colored? but i do also have a small bit of white left and then half a reel of green

marvin has to little footprint for it to stick… it will be knocked loose about half way during the print even with heated bed on

without the heated bed it will not stick at all…

nozzle is 0.35mm so will set extrusion to 0.34

but i can conclude that i mist play with extrusion width and temp ? and maybe speed?

17

I’m sorry for misunderstanding me, but I didn’t mean 0,38/0,34mm instead the right extrusion width is 0,38-0,40mm. You understood everything else correctly. Green or white would be best for me to inspect the print by looking at pictures. -Marius

18

oki, will give a new go during the evening… printing some spares right now.

19

So just to get it right i have a 0.35 nozzle should i try to set extrusion width higher or lower?

or should i use flow tweak settings instead?

20

coasting… can you explain what that means so i can find the similar setting in kisslicer?

but so far i have upped each layer time to 15s

and upped temps by 5C… first layer 185 and the rest 180

bed temp is set to 60, if i go lower nothing sticks… mind you i’m printing directly on glass (ikea mirror)

what speed should i use? currently i have set X and Y to 250 mm/s… first layer 10mm/s and it adds 3 for each layer after the first one. accelleration is set to 2000 mm/s^2

21

If you use the 0.35mm nozzles you should increase the extrusion width to 0.38-0.40mm since the filament line will flatten out due to gravity. I have best results using 0.40mm width in the settings. Good luck, Marius

22

Coasting (a value set in mm) means, that the printer stops extruding for a certain length before going into a retraction. If you enable this you compensate the possible oozing when the printhead moves to another location. I have used 20mm/s as print speed and 10mm/s for the first layer. I also print on a glass plate and smear some glue stivk stick (solvent free) on the plate when it heats up. This creates a really good sticky surface, you might even need to use a knife or blade to remove the print. A small, barely visible layer of glue is all you need. Marius

1 Like
23

still printing spares (gear wheel for extruder - old one is worn)

but there is no setting like what you descripe… so i will have to make do with playing arround with how much suck it does before a move to a new place… and how far or little it has to move before it considers a new location… but i feel a bit more wise at least…

24

upping temps by 5C and lower the speed just a tad helped a damm lot.

The face edge is now spot on and only have to get rid of some tiny strings in the hook part and some blobs on each side of the face…

i have been at a birthday all day and i did not have time to change filament before i went out so i only have it in black… have upped suck on destring to 2mm and will see what that gives me.

25

Good to hear your progress.

Take the time you need :wink:

-Marius

26

doing one in semi transparent green right now… even thou my hub is activated i want to get it right…

it was not so much the temp that did it, it was more the speed when doing the perimeters… suck was also not the thing (i tried going from 1 to 2 mm and it only made it worse.

this time i have lowered the temps again but upped suck to 1.1mm and lowered the speed a bit more