Ok, apparently I have a lot of competition on this page… If you don’t have a parts fan, the PLA is cooling unevenly which causes it to warp upwards. When this happens, your nozzle crashes into the warped edge and the rest of the layers are shifted, just as your picture describes.
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It seems that your stepper missing some stepps. Maybe you should reduce the extrution and rice the retracrion. Greez
Start from the beginning and make sure the bed is totally level in each direction and your print head is about a piece of papers thickness away from the bed when your print starts.
I think your belts may have slipped at that point. Try tightening the belts until they “twang” like a piano sting.
This is your printer skipping steps, due to too much sideways resistance on the extruder.
There are many possible mitigations, but the first I’d recommend for a deltabot pure software - make sure your printer ‘hops’ from one object to another.
In Slic3r the setting is in the printer - set “lift Z” to 2, and then every time the printer retracts filament, it’ll pop up 2mm before traveling to the next object, then set back down to print.
If that doesn’t work, you might want to improve your print cooling, lower the travel speed, or increase your motor voltage.
Paul
Your axis might be slipping. Does it always happen at the same spot? If not, It might be in your software. Also, your extruder might be getting stuck on your print and skipping steps.
Add a cooling fan to reduce warping and lower your travel velocity to 100mm/s. As someone else suggested, adding z-lift with retractions. Also, if this is a generic kossel kit, check your X,Y and Z acceleration. 9000 is typically too high for average stepper motors. Lowering to 7000 will give you more reliable printing and higher quality prints.
Ok, let me get into some more detail, it almost never happens in a single print with very few seperate points. Ive printed the G Rocket fine, vases fine, more kossel parts fine, etc etc. My rods are not quite perfect to each other, they came premade in the kit so I went with it. I have 2 at 216mm, 2 at 215.5mm and 2 at 215mm. Also I know the print is going to end up this way in advance where I hear the print head running into the part and when I examine the situation it looks as if the PLA has curled up a bit at the point of contact. Ive tried various temps from 185-up to 220 for the pla to cure this and I have 2 fans on my print head, one to cool the heat sink and one directed at the hot end itself.
I was think this but I do have a 30mm fan cooling the PLA and still getting curls(but not all the time) On some models no curls at all and on other lots of curls. Ive tried varying temps but it makes no different. I do have any examples atm to show as I usually toss them. Currently print BB-8 and he is coming out flawless so far, not oval or anything so this discounts someone else comments about rod length issues. I might most some examples of successful prints with multiple points here and then try one I know fails and post a pic.
On a DELTA printer, a layer shift due to a motor skipping steps or cutting out will make the print shift away from a particular tower. When it skips a step its usually trying to move up, or if it cuts out for a millisecond the carriage will drop down slightly. Both of these actions result in one axis being a few steps below where it should be, which in turn pushes the platform AWAY from that tower.
If your layers are shifting like your photo shows, have look which direction the part has shifted (maybe take a photo from directly above). This should point to which tower has the problem.
Ive done this many times to ensure bed calibration is right on. I even have buttons setup in Pronterface for X,Y,Z,Center Position locations. Always fine tune until a piece of paper just barely scrapes the head
Pictures always help. The more pictures you can post the better the chances someone can spot your issue =)
I was actually considering trying this out a few times but unsure of the feature. I may give a go tonight on something I know fails to see how it goes.
Hey, first check to make sure all belts and pulleys are tight. Als make sure the print has isn’t wobbling then if that fails u may need to adjust the current to the stepper drivers
A shift like that is typically caused by the bed moving because parts are attached to it and being hit by the head. Secure the bed as best possible and use the zlift feature as previously mentioned. My kossel mini prints multiple objects like a champ, my only issue is stringing which I can’t eliminate.
My Glass bed is secured down and cannot shift side to side as I have tabs fixed to the 2020 fram with rads exactly matching the diameter of the glass bed. There is no play. I never have a problem with stringing unless I am printing in flexible filament. My printer has good days where it prints great and mediocre days where it prints soso. I have been into this now for about 5 weeks and had to do a lot of research and reading up to get it this far. It is a DIY kit that had no firmware when I got it. If I can get past this one last obstacle I’ll hopefully be fine
If your printer is homed, can you shift the head by Hans such that it doesn’t move back?
It definitely sounds like your move speed is too high (not your actual printing speed, but the speed for moving between parts) and/or your motor acceleration values are too high in firmware. To test lower acceleration speeds without having to reflash your firmware, go to control -> motion -> scroll down until you see acceleration and lower to 2000. Than scroll down further and change each of the individual motor (x, y, z) acceleration values down to 7000. Start there and see if it is improved.
My acceleration is at 3000 and my x,y,z acceleration values are all set to 2000 already
You have a fan like this?
If it is warping, you’d see a ton of it on the bottom half of BB-8 (assuming you’re printing the whole sphere and not half at a time).
This is usually the quality of my prints, this is one of a bunch of parts I printed this past weekend for a new kossel project I want to start myself with a much larger printer area. As you can see I have no issues with quality, distortion or leveling, its just a lot of the time with multi separate rises I get the issue i originally described, now the PLA in the pic i have not had that issue with but I have not tried any of the usual problem parts I get this issue with with the PLA yet. When I get a moment I will attempt a problem part and upload the results for a better assessment
Hello i had the same issue , after doing all the things they mention here ,what is right ,
i came to dicover that 1 motor was bad ,
he skipt an step or 1-2 . i had lose him from the belt and turned it by hand ,at an piont turning with same force by hand the motor feeled like he had an skipping,and crackfeeling, after replace the motor all went good no problems anymore since then .
the motor was striped and the failure was 1 defect barrel in the tiny bearing. I think there was tomuch tension or force on the motor, in the past.
so if nothing works try this .
When it happens to me again i check the motors first, this is much faster then do all the settings and so on .
but till now i have no problems at all.
cheers . mike
My fans are exactly like that. The BB8 I am printing is 3 parts, center hub for mechanics and two side pieces. I get some curl up at bottom right on platform but no where else on him. I do not have a heated bed
Such error during the print may be cause by few reasons
1- while you were printing the printing head encounter an obstacle which prevent the head to move correctly in the X Y dimension, probably cause by an over extrusion of the previous layers, an over extrusion may pile up ever several layer before it become an issues I suggest diminishing the over extrusion parameters or increase the layer hight
2- While you were printing a resistance may have been encounter in X or Y axis both at the same time is not probable which can have prevent the printing head to move to its proper position, for that check your assembly and grease the X and Y moving roads with a white grease for metal
3- The last probable cause is way more touchy to adjust, each motor you have in your printer is control by a step motor chip, these chip have a small calibration knobs which control the amount of power sent to the motor for each move, increase it and you will provide the motor with more power to surmount small obstacle if you give to much the motor will overheat and lose longevity, not enough power and you may encounter problem like your describing, But I repeat this is very tricky and such be done by expert 3D technicien.
Hope these will help you, Have 3D FUN
Yvan
Hey FYI adjusting the stepper drivers isn’t that hard but you do need a multi meter and another place you should check for help is the reprap mIRC channel. If you google reprap irc u’ll find a link that will take you to wiki and then another link to take you to the channel. If you need assistance adjusting the drivers send me a message and I can walk you thru it
I will do that as a last resort however I am leaning towards the the solution of raising Z on retraction to see if this solves the issue, as it only occurs when I run into the print repeatedly, which seems to occur when I have multiple rises and the PLA starts to curl upwards
You could try printing slower. If you put your fingers on the stepper drivers, do they burn you? Are the steppers themselves hot? The current on the stepper drivers may be up to high and letting the steppers lose steps. You can turn down the current, or add an electronics fan.
Hello. I’m not familiar with delta printers but I think it hás to do with material warpage and maybe material to platformas adhesion. Do your prints stick to the platformas or do the wider ones end up with onde corner lifted up? I had that problemas with ABS And some times the print head just knocked the piece of the bed. And some other isue to pay attention, is you extruder over extruding? Check and calibrate your E-steps.
I’d try tightening your x belt as a first step
Try adjusting your z raise height that way it lifts a little most are set to zero but if you built it your self it might not be quite true and maybe slow your non print moves to be slower
Yes when printing multiple items the head has to cross the external border which is the most likely time for a crash to happen. Most of the curled edges happen when you are extending a wall in a nonvertical direction like 45 degrees. A flatter angle say 60 degrees to 90 degrees the extension sags. More vertical and the structure is solid so no curl however there is a range where the conditions are just right those edges curl. If they curl enough and they have time to fully cool and the head comes zooming in and trys to cross the border the stepper stalls any you loose sync.
Your slicer program probably has a setting that can help. In your slicer settings look for a settings called Z hop: or something like that. Set it to 1 to 2 mm. You may have to turn on retraction to get it to work. It will cause the head to move up in the Z everytime it does a non extruding move that crosses a border. Move inside the next border and drop back down to printing height. It will slow down the print a little, more if you have many separated islands of area being printed. However if your prints no longer fail its worth it.