I cannot get the robo, I already have it, terrible support.If I return it, do you guys know of a great/good printer that had auto bed leveling, 10*9*8 inches in build volume, open source, around the same amount of filament options?
ROBO sucks. I have one. The new ones print awesome, however they have hardware and design issues. The two z offset switches have to be working perfectly, and are in constant need of adjustment. Eventually the system just stops working all together. On top of that I have had crazy and random electrical issues. The machine lacks quality engineering.
If you don’t mind putting together a kit, there is a new prsua i3 out that is suppose to be pretty good.
([New Arrival] HICTOP Filament Monitor Desktop 3D Printer Kits Reprap Prusa I3 MK8 DIY Self-assembly Printing size 10.6" x 8.3" x 7.7")
It’s 335 bucks, so it’s much less expensive than the robo, though it lacks a few of its features. It has about the same build volume. You can pay extra (I think maybe $60) and get an auto leveler with it, though I would just stick with a bed leveling system. It also has an aluminum bed rather than glass. Either way, I would pay 800 dollars for that printer, before I ever dropped 800 on another robo product. I am going to pick one up myself here soon. Here’s a link to where you can grab one on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Arrival-HICTOP-Filament-Self-assembly-Printing/dp/B01ERDWSFU/ref=sr\_1\_sc\_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467014376&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=prsua+i3
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I have a robo 3d R1 with a bunch of upgrades and it runs like a champ. However I also have a wanhao D6 stock and its really good. I’d recommend the D6 if you want something that is hands off and just runs. its 200x200x180 though. Alternatively I have heard really really good things about the new prusa i3 but I have no personal experience.
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Has all of the info you need.
It’s the next iteration of the design Robo3D did a terrible job imitating anyway, for the same price as the Robo3D. Also, it’s the original designer everyone else is copying for this style of 3d printer so you’re better off with better support anyway.
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I´ve had the Robo 3D for a couple of years and I think its costumer service has always been very atentive and helpful.
I just want to be a moderate voice. I have a Robo R1. I’ve had it for over a year of continuous use. For what it is, it is a fine printer. However, it requires maintenance and tinkering to operate well for a long period of time. I think the key thing to remember is that it’s a fully assembled printer assembled in the USA with domestic support (such as it is) for $800 that has similar features and build volume to much more expensive printers. Finally, it’s a 3d printer. If something is poorly designed, print a better part. One of the best things about Robo (and a lot of these printer companies) is that tinkering is expected and in most cases doesn’t void the warranty/support (which is something you don’t get with $300 self assembled printers).
A few points.
The build area is deceptive on the Robo, the actual heated portion of the bed is 8" x 8" and anything that falls outside of that heated portion is subject to the whims of how the glass cools off. Also, the heater itself is garbage.
The $350 Monoprice Maker Select I currently print with has been outperforming out-of-the-box both the R1 and R1+ I’ve given a shot to. It doesn’t have auto-leveling, but the kicker here is that auto-leveling is useless when the build platform and leveling system causes the bed to flex during the leveling cycle like it does on the Robo3D. The very first time I ran a program on the R1 it shattered the glass bed when probing the middle point.
All of the failures on my Robo3D printers are the results of electronic components failing. The mechanical parts were just fine, but motors would die or the Ramps would short out or the power supply would be faulty. The only mechanical failure I consistently had with the Stock Robo3D printers was that the Hexagon hotend wouldn’t be assembled properly and would leak when doing an initial setup and test print (though the R1+ came in with absolutely nothing plugged into the Ramps, just loose wires hanging underneath the build area once I removed the bottom cover to see what the issue was).
If the Robo3D is actually assembled in the US I’ll eat my hat. It’s stored in a warehouse and shipped out in the US, but that’s it.
What is the problem with the Robo? My experience is that Robo has excellent customer service; I’ve been dealing with them for 2 years.
I have three Robo R1+ printers and they work fine. Of course, they do need occasional maintenance and parts do wear out.
So, what is the actual problem?
The nice thing about the Robo is that it is pretty much open-source. I can get parts from Robo or other vendors. The Robo is based upon the Prusa i3, so you can buy components at several companies. Of course, if you are looking for a new printer for a lot less $$, you could get a good quality i3 kit and build one yourself. Probably the least costly way of doing it. Time consuming, but inexpensive.
When I was doing my research a month ago (and eventually bought an R1), it was clearly the best value. But here’s a thread I posted which may have some other options that work for you: Talk Manufacturing | Hubs
Specifically, I was looking at the M2 as another option but it was basically 3x the price of the R1, so the choice was pretty easy.
Honestly, I’m really happy with my R1 – curious what issues you’re having, and why their 24/7 support isn’t working for you.
I’m not the op but after 2 years I only have/had two problems. But they’re persistent.
1) 24/7 support is garbage. Use the 1on1, which is amazing, or dont bother.
2) bed leveling. They’re auto bed leveler never did it for me. for about a year and a half I could not print abs without it warping off the bedplate. I built a mod to manually adjust the bed with thumb screws and it has increased my bed adhesion exponentially. good to go now but no thanks to anything they did.
The MakerGear M2 (if that’s the M2 you’re referring to) is basically *the* ironclad setup-and-go printer though.
I mean, just look at the 3d hubs reviews for it.
Instant quotes for 1-1000 units. Prototype materials: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, TPU. Industrial materials: Markforged, Stratasys & Ultem. Lead time: 1 business day.
Why would someone eat a hat?
I’m sorry you broke your printer, that’s a bummer. Robo R1 printers seem to require maintenance to get the best out of them.
Also, I apologize for putting it like this, but unless you changed how the homing process works on your printer, it will not cause the bed to warp. The only force it applies to the bed is a fraction of the weight of the print head. If yours is applying enough force to break the print bed, then something is wrong and it is time for some serious maintenance.
Finally, I haven’t had any of the electrical issues that you are speaking of, and when I look at the bed with a thermal camera, it is an even temperature all the way across the 8" x 8" heated section (within a couple degrees). It sounds like you got a dud, Robo is pretty good about their return policy, as long as you are within a 6 month window from when you got it.
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Criticizing how I maintain my 3d printers might be valid if I didn’t have perfectly functioning printers from other manufacturers, one that had the same price tag and another that was half the price.
The Monoprice Maker Select is an excellent little printer for $350, and the Original Prusa MK2 is another awesome printer with a larger print area and better specifications than the Robo3D printer for $699 for the kit or $899 for the fully-assembled version (I went with the kit). Both of them worked well out of the box and upon assembly where the Robo3D printers didn’t even have any components worth salvaging for spare parts.
I’ll admit that my sample size of two printers from Robo3D shouldn’t carry much weight, but take a look at the endless complaints about broken parts out of the box on their own community forums (or even on the Facebook group for Robo3D owners). Anything that arrives from the manufacturer with broken parts is the manufacturer’s problem, not the consumer.
Their support is generally awesome, however, they can’t fix everything, nor can they diagnose all issues. Just since my machine has been out of warrantee , I have had to replace the z steppers, AND lead screws (since they are one piece on the robo)
I have had to replace 2 stepper drivers, (for the z steppers and x stepper)
A block heating element, (the leads broke, from constantly crashing into the vertical support)
Before, when my machine WAS in warrantee I had to replace the entire machine all together. What was happning was the machines temp readings were off by about 50 degrees C. PLA had to be printed at 250, and I really couldn’t use many other plastics because the firmware regulates temp, however when I went to edit the machines temp limits, the readings just got further off.
Currently I can’t even get my printer to print on the bed, because the stupid ass z end stop switches wont trigger simultaneously at each probe position, no matter how much I adjust, OR even how much I lower my z offset.
On top of that, these machines require such a finite level of accuracy and the damn vertical support rods aren’t even held tight at the top of the printer. They have way to much play, meaning tall parts have to be printed ungodly slow.
The printer sucks and they are banned me from support a week ago, had it for 5 months. Could not use it for 6 weeks. I have the R1 Plus and not the Reburbished R1 Plus.
I’d suggest, as someone else did, the Prusa i3 MK2. Affordable. Feature packed. Easy to use. Supports lots of materials.
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Rostock Max V3 by SeeMe CNC…great kit, amazing community and customer service…prints extremely well!
there are many cartesian printers out there (that means box setup like the robot 3d is) go on eBay, the only thing is you’ll have to mess with the firmware a bit to get some good consistent prints. I myself just built a rostock kossel printer from a kit i bought on dhgate. you can do the same if your interested. Some advice, youtube the printer before you buy it!
