Mmmmm Jory… There’s a better way of removing Parts from the Build Platform. Place the build platform in cool water.
Works every time for me…
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That is awesome, thank you for this video, I will be using this technique.
I’d love a series on designing for printing without supports.
That’s fine, but, you could have made a demo with angular supports and accomplished the same thing without giving customers who don’t know better the wrong idea. Cool video, but could have been executed differently.
Hey @JoryFormlabs, thanks for sharing your tips here on Talk. Looking forward to the next ones 
Cheers!
Hey Jory,
Thanks for sharing this method to remove supports. Can you please explain how/why the Form 2 can print without supports while it’s difficult to do so on the Form 1+? I’ve actually just received the Rook sample and I’m about to order the Form 2 but wasting expensive resin on supports is a concern to keep in mind.
Is it possible to print anything on the Form 2 without supports?
Again, thank you so much for taking the time to help.
The Form 2’s new peel process and heating mechanism allow for a little more wiggle room with support usage (the new heating system makes the resin less viscous). However, this does not mean that support structures are not required for most pieces. We still recommend using supports for most items as the structures help promote resin flow and prevent initial compression from effecting the bases of your prints. Quoting our support site again:
“Flat surfaces with support structures print much more successfully at an angle of at least 10–20º. You will notice that if you use the automatic orientation in PreForm by highlighting your part and clicking “Orient Selected” it will usually position your piece at an angle. After each layer, the printer performs a “peel” process, which literally peels the layer off the PDMS surface of the resin tank. The forces involved can distort the extremely thin layer of a flat surface mounted on support structures. If a planar surface is oriented at an angle to the build platform, there is only a little overhang for each new layer. Furthermore, many thin-walled parts present significantly less area in any slice when printed at an angle.”
The full article on our website is here: http://formlabs.com/support/guide/prepare/model-orientation/ 12
Hope this helps!
Jory
Thanks for the feedback…I’m working on a segment to talk about supports specifically.
Jory
7 months later
I just tried this technique with a part on our form2 with tough resin, it didn’t work. We used the cutters on all four corners and it wouldn’t lift off. We were making a box 2" x 4" with 3mm thick walls. I then used the spatula to get it off and it started warping and then broke. Would heating the build platform with a heat gun help? The print came out great and it was fast and saved a lot of material. This would be fantastic if we could get it to separate easily.
5 months later
Hi Jory. Could you please recommend to me a flex shaft type of tool that is good for sanding/finishing support marks? I get 3d prints of Formlabs castable resin, and I find it difficult to remove the support marks. What would get less “gummed up” and smooth the support marks? Rubber wheels, sanding drums… etc?
Thanks.
2 months later
I am printing chess pieces. They are all vertical, and they all have at least base supports. I use a Stanley carpet tack puller to pry the pieces off of the build platform. It works great. I have two build platforms, so I can print around the clock. I divide the tank up into 9 sections for doing chess pieces. This helps the tank last. You are right…a tank last for about 3 liters.
3 months later
Hi I’m curious to see how you will use the support in F2 I do not like Formlabs’ support because they are too thick for jewelry.
5 months later
Hi Jory,
Did you ever make a video about printing without supports? Could you please link to it?
Thanks!
Dave