Tmallard has it right in the other thread Talk Manufacturing | Hubs
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Hi Logan,
yes, the opening of the extruded head (more exactly the closing) has to be done carefully - if it is not correctly sealed, the you will see loss of PLA from above the block - after doing any maintanence here, once you have carefully screwed in the heat break tube above the block, then the nozzle itself just below, but MAKE SURE that there is a tiny bit of thread still visible on the nozzle side when the nozzle won’t go in any further (that means that inside the block the nozzle has met with the heat break tube), and DONT tighten too much whilst cold - once heated up to 200’C then apply the final careful press with the spanner, whilst holding the block with a monkey wrench, to make sure you’ve sealed the block whilst hot - there after you should not have any PLA coming out from above the block!
Whilst your at it, make sure all the othe screws (fan, etc) are also tight - you may have to undo other screws to get to the screws under the fan that attach the fan holder to the main block.
if I’m doubt, check out the makerbot channel on YouTube, I’m sure there is a video explaining all this
cheers!
andy
This is a photo of a Replicator dual (original) not a replicator 2. Did you upload the wrong photo? Rep duals print with ABS not PLA.
So going on the assumption that you linked to the wrong photo. Tighten everything. There is no way that plastic should be able to ooze out anywhere if the extruder is tight.
My Rep1 Dual prints in PLA just fine. The Rep2 can’t print ABS because it lacks a heated build plate. The Rep2X can because of the heated build plate.
I don’t really a dripping of extra material but it looks like there’s some buldge on the bottom horizontal shoulder. Must be an internal leak. I’ve never seen anything like that with ABS on my 2X. When I’m clearing jams in the extruder head I remove the overhead drive motors and manualy push/pull material directly with my hands or a pliers when more traction is needed.
Sorry for the confusion, (I’ll make this noticeable) NOT MY PHOTO. The printers are my school’s and so I cannot go see it again till Monday. I may have a pic or video on my phone that Ill try to upload.
Yeah it might be because the hot end assembly isn’t put together right. Or just not seated right. It’s my least favorite thing about the machine.
Fargo3D
February 21, 2015, 10:07pm
14
It sounds like it might be time to replace the heater block assembly . A fresh thermal barrier tube, heater block, nozzle, and ceramic tape should make it all better.
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I don’t know if proper procedures were followed when taking off the nozzle, since at my school I print more than anyone, but they still think taking it apart past the point of the heatshrink is a job for the adults… however when taking it apart and putting it back together I do not know of any specific method or way that the teacher was following. I get the feeling there is some kind of issue or loose bit in there… It seemed like a really rushed job to me, and I already had to tighten other screws.
Hey Logan,
If you are in the LA area then go ahead and bring it on in our shop and we can see about fixing this issue you are having.
-Maya
The Build Shop
MicroFe
February 21, 2015, 11:27pm
17
Hi,
If you have had the unit apart one thing worth double checking is that the fan on the front heat sink has not been installed back to front. When its the wrong way around the PLA will overheat above the heater block and become too soft for the feed roller. Eventually (10-15 Minutes into a print) it will stop extruding. There will be a mess around the feed roller that needs to be cleared. Sometimes the PLA can be seen feeding out of the side near the stepper/feed roller area above the heated block.
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Fargo3D
February 21, 2015, 11:33pm
18
This. We’ve diagnosed a few “broken” Rep 2’s that just had the fan mounted in the wrong direction.
Yup somebody messed up the head most probably. Have you been running regular maintenance? Do you have the new spring loaded mechanism to push the Filament in the Extruder against the gear to push it out? What’s happening is there is now a gap between the heated Filament and the Nozzle so the Filament bends and extrudes out from another outlet created during the messing about with the head.
3dmasc
February 22, 2015, 4:32pm
20
I use Goof Off heavy duty wipes and AR Kleen Lens cleaner to keep the extruder going once it clogs. Have not had to dissassemble as of yet - and have a standby extruder on hand just in case.
I am located in Chantilly, VA. If not too far from me, I could come by and take a look.
First, it looks like you are working on a 2x. I also dont see anything from the picture.
It does sound like your nozzle is loose. Someone might have stripped out the threads! In that case you might need a new nozzle and aluminum block.
Hello Logan,
here are the steps>
1) take out the fan, let it hanging, turn on machine, preheat at 245 and load filament without passing it from the motor that pulls it.
a) if you can extrude, then your nozzle is OK and
this means that you have to >
https://www.makerbot.com/support/new/06\_Replicator\_2X/Knowledge\_Base/Adjusting\_Extruder\_Spring\_Tension
and align all things so that the holes in vertical axis are aligned
turn off machine and mount it back not too tight and trying not to have any cable of the fan pressed
do not use metallic tools because you wil make a short circuit
b)if you cannot extrude this means you have plastic in the nozzle.
try to clean it>
http://funbiestudios.com/2014/01/unofficial-guide-makerbot-replicator-2-extruder-nozzle-replacement/
Hope it helps!
Anastasia
Hi Logam,
Unfortunately the “falling apart” is a known issue with Makerbot Rep 2 (ALL Gens.)
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Try to tighten all the screws wile the hotend is hot. Dont burn your fingers wile doing it. Make shure the heatbreak is screwed into the heatsink tight and the nozzle into the heatblock. And then the connection beween the heatbock and the heatbreak. Do not use to much force in order not to damage the heatbreak. And, wile you have disassambled the printhead anyways clean the filamentpulley using a toothbrush or something simular.
Hope this helps…
florian
I’ve had some issues with my hot end in the past that are similar. Not oozing out the side, but I have had issues where there was an ever so slight gap between the top of the nozzle and the bottom of the feed tube that screws into the heater block. That tiny gap caused me more issues than anything that has ever been wrong with the printer otherwise. If you are able, I would recommend buying some ceramic and kapton tape, taking the whole block apart, melt the parts clean or get a new nozzle and rebuild it, making sure that there are no gaps anywhere. Be very careful of the wire on the thermocouple. It damages easily and they aren’t super easy to get a hold of. Also, if you are replacing the nozzle, be wary of the super cheap deals. the inner profile of the melting chamber makes a big performance difference.
As I’m hunting down infos for my dual extruder being off ( pic) I found this- proper way to reassemble!
