Thanks but I’m using PLA.
- Try a 5 or 10mm brim.
- coat the build plate with some 1:2 diluted PVA or gluestick or hairspray or buildtak.
- if you have a heated bed, use it.
Hi Furball
Bad adhesion, could you explain material you use and settings of this print?
If you want to stay on blue tap, add a small layer of glue stick, print the first layer little bit hotter (+15C), a little bit slower and finally disable cooling.
You can also add a raft in your slicer.
An another solution buy a print surface, personally I use the CoroPad, but you have other solutions. I recommend you to see this video Review: Are commercial build surfaces worth it? - YouTube
I see painters tape? Is your bed heated?
I use BuildTak for PLA on both my machines and don’t have any adhesion or warping issues. Will be testing PETG this weekend.
Have you tried cleaning your bed with rubbing alcohol? It’s a great help for me!
If i’m looking for a straight edge and consistant layer height rather than the surface finish - I always use a raft on my blue tape. Get almost zero warp and the print pops off (usually!!) without fuss.
Steve
Aquanet Extra Super Hold Hairspray on the Blue Tape
use a brim, 6mm is fine for most pints. also check the distance to the bed.
In the case of using tape,the blue tape has the better results than other painters tape.
If possible reorient the object onto a side and print it that way.
Use a brim and blue scotch tape (painter’s tape)
If that doesn’t work for that particularly larger print, experiment with different filaments and room temperatures.
Also make sure your printer isn’t set-up under an air conditioning vent or an open window.
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Get a heated bed… Large flat objects never stuck down on cold tape for me.
i use a heated glass bed and parts stick like crazy until the bed cools and then they just pop off
Slow first layer print speed to 15% & first~3rd layer turn off fan.
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Thanks RoboSavy it not under a air vent but I will try a brim thanks!
Thx I will check BuildTak out!
Here’s some things I do to keep prints from popping off early:
I print the first layer hotter than the rest of the print. I start my PLA prints at 215, but run the rest of the print at 185. Slic3r will let you do this, Cura won’t (not yet, anyway) - check your software to see if it’s an option. This can result in a lip around the bottom of the print, especially if you’re using a setting to make the bottom layer extrude more material.
I personally prefer Duck Tape brand blue painter’s tape. I’ve found the generic brands don’t grip the platform as well, so the tape lifts along with the print.
Try to enclose your printer to protect it from cooler air. I’ve seen open body printers encased in plexiglass boxes turn out some fantastic prints. I haven’t built an enclosure for my printer yet, but it’s on my wish list.
The key is to try to keep all the plastic at approximately the same temperature as it cools. Warping only happens when one part cools faster than the rest.
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You can print the first layer hotter in Cura with the “Tweak At Z” plugin (enable by default in Cura).
Print first layer slower, too
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