Hi All.
This may be a daft post…
In order to print parts faster, is it simply a matter of increasing the print speed? or does other factors you need to considered. I’ve read somewhere regarding flow rate etc. but I’m not 100% sure.
I know decreasing the Z resolution and infill % helps but are there any other tweaks to consider.
Thanks
SOC3D
2
Bigger nozzle. Bigger layer height and line width. Less infill. Speed is less of a factor than the amount of plastic you are putting down as most printers have a maximum decent print quality speed.
Depends on what type of printer you have.
As mentioned below, bigger nozzle will need to come with bigger hotend, such as E3D Volcano, where the plastic is molten for longer hence allows for more material to be passed through at a higher rate. The sticking point then becomes whether on not you have a geared extruder to keep up with the flow rate.
A direct drive would almost certainly fail, get hot or start slipping as it tries to move the material quicker.
Wow this seems complicated :S. I have the BCN3D Sigma. I am looking for fast prints but not really concerned about quality…0.3mm is adequate
SOC3D
5
poppycock. Both of those points are untrue in real life.
You can easily go up to a .8mm nozzle from a .25-.4 which are standard on most 1.75mm printers without a new extruder or hotend. It’s when you get to the 1.2mm nozzle and above that you really need a new heater block and you really need 3mm filament.
I’ve driven 1.75mm filament through $14 direct drive extruders and E3D’s with no issue at .8mm with .48mm layer height and through a 350mm bowden tube on a direct drive extruder on the rostock.
I was referring to fast prints using 1.2mm nozzle and 0.6mm layer heights, and again depends on the step angle of the extruder motor, it will run hot using 1.75mm. Simple as.
SOC3D
8
Ah, well then we do agree with each other here. Good advice.
If you want to go faster you have to go hotter, try 7mm3/s with the max recommended temp for the filament and let me know 
