I agree with gift3d, this orientation will will require the least amount of supports. If you an change the design such that the “bottom” instead of going up and then straight (horizontal) for the face, use a blend starting at the edge to provide a curve that may be able to reduce the needs for supports totally. The inside face can still be flat.
Hi, I would print this with the bottom down and choose support type ‘touching buildplate’, unless you are stick to this design you may decide to change the design of the object to touch the build plate without the need for support and use a low infill percentage.
With regard to the curve, i think you can do this without support, i use a UM2 and i made shapes with simular overhang (although i can not fully judge based on the screenshots, if it the same).
i think the best thing to do first is the print a smaller version (scale down) of this object to see how the overhangs are printed.
GIFT3D
March 23, 2016, 7:47pm
9
Thanks for agreeing with me. It is also a great idea to change the base piece as Chanman suggested.
You can actually print this without support if you cut the model right at the limit of the solid bottom.
Then you would print the big part with a flat surface on the bottom, and the remaining ring alone.
No support, yay !
You can use netfabb basic to cut this, it is free.
If my explanations are not clear, send me the stl file and I’ll cut it for you.
2 Likes
Open side up would be me choice, you have to take into consideration the small holes and the raised platform. G’luck, want to see how it comes out.
gr5org
March 23, 2016, 8:23pm
12
Lot’s of great advice already - I didn’t see anything I disagreed with. I would try it just as shown in the first photo because then there is less warping/lifting force on the bottom surface. I would print with heavy amounts of brim to keep the part on the glass and print with no support at all and I think it would come out okay. The worst quality would be on the underside of the “shelf”.
It’s critical that fan is on 100% when “bridging”. Bridging is when it starts making the shelf and the printer does that pretty well.
Another note - if you are cutting it in half you can do it in cura by using in the Quality section something like “sink part into bed” and you can specify the amount in mm and look at what it is doing. Then flip it over and slice it again with a second value that cuts off the other end. for example if part is 10mm high and you want to split at 3mm from bottom sink it 3mm in and slice it and print it then flip over and sink it 7mm and print it then glue together with superglue preferably gel style and preferably brand new superglue out of a fresh bottle for the best strength and also rough up the surfaces with a knife or file or something for the glue to get more surface area.
But to cut it in half well I would make the surface much more complicated with bumps and holes to fit into so that the glue doesn’t have to work hard.
Calan
March 23, 2016, 8:28pm
13
I agree with everyone that printing the flat part down would be the best but you also have to take into account what side is most visible. Even with supports, the side facing down wont be perfect. Unless you plan on sanding and painting or don’t care about it looking perfect, I would print the most visible/most need to be smooth side up. Best way would obviously be to cut it into 2 prints so it can lay flat on the print bed.
no support and bottom down, i see no issue printing it!
2 Likes
Try using a high setting when creating an stl file for a smoother finish.Use thinner layers, good quality material (no chinese rubbish) HD glas or petg is good and low warping .Fans on full hit & slow it down .You could then possibly get away from using supports. would be a gamble tho. try a scaled down version for a tea light holder first
I would cut it into two parts. Lay flat the bottom. Before cutting it create some intern holes where you can put in some pins to help positioning while gluing. Take extra care of the adjustment of your platform, try to reduce the risk of deformation at the bottom. Use glue (hairspray) at the platform so you don’t have to squeeze the first layer to make it stick. No support. Use good material and print it slow 30 mm/sec and cold 190 grC. Give it time and let it surprise you. Groet Bert
use ‘dimafix’ for bonding to heated beds not glue. i just used it on a 80 hr print on my um2+extended and it never budged
http://www.dimafix.com/
Hello Thvanarkel,
Do you accept cutting or have CNC machining resources ? if yes, just modify the drawing filled the bottom and then cut out after printed. Of course, it is trouble more than just FDM.
Thx
easy3dwork
Odin
How is the 0.15mm a good Z distance?
You don’t need to cut the model, just add support at the bottom and it should be fine, br
thats not quite accurate.
It’s just an air gap to help removal of the supports. Increasing it would make the overhang a mess and alter dimensions.
i’m not talking about the gap of the x and y axis.
How can the gap between the model and the support on the Z axis be 0.15mm if for example: you are printing with 0.1mm layer height?
It has everything to do with layer resolution.
For me this sounds like the perfect solution!
Thanks everyone, I’ll probably make a few adjustments to the model first, then try some of your suggestions on a scale model first before printing it full size!
I often print a solid support first with PVA (dissolves in hot water).
You can than insert the support just before it’s actually needed and the print will be perfect.
When it’s done you just wash the support off.
