Let me prioritize my reply here:
Z-Offset:
Take a look at this thread here: https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=2494 4
The setting you are looking for is under Machine>Machine Settings>Z-Offset (mm) in Cura. I had to add just over a single layer height to fix the problem. You can also permanently adjust this in the firmware of your printer, but I was too scared to try it back then.
First Layer width and Height:
These are advanced settings under Cura. They are called Initial Layer Line Width (%) and Initial Layer Thickness (mm). Set the thickness to 0.0 or to the thickness of your normal layers(The tool tip will tell you those do the same thing). Set the Width to 100%. Beefier first layers help with adhesion in the same way printing with a brim does, more surface area to stick. But for mechanical parts, this ruins accuracy. Simplify 3D, for what it’s worth, seems to handle the calculations for the height a lot better than Cura, I’m not familiar with the Cura source code so don’t quote me, it could be they’re compensating for that thickness change too, but it caused me a lot more headaches with Cura.
That brings me nicely to Simplify 3D…
It works perfectly, right out of the box with the Lulzbot Mini. The one gotcha, is that for some reason they are using what I can only assume is an older out dated version of the auto-leveling sequence before the print starts. The major difference is that after the nozzle wipe, it pauses over the first contact point and waits for the extruder to reach a new temp, about a 20 second pause. Sometimes this little pause is enough to ruin the leveling sequence, driving the nozzle into the metal disk. It’s a pain when it happens, but it’s pretty rare. I’ve had it happen with Cura too, but it usually just means I need to replace the wiper pad. You can update this sequence pretty easily in the software, it’s just not done for you.
Other than that one thing, S3D works just fine on the Mini, and it works just like it does on any other printer. You can print directly from it while tethered, so it’s a drop in replacement for Cura.
S3D is worth the money, only if you frequently run into problems with Cura. Especially things like thin walls, or support sticking to the model. If you’re making stuff that works well with Cura, just stick to that. I’m perfectly happy with my purchase of the software, but I don’t think it’s so much better that I would say you definitely have to buy it.
Oh and as for filaments, that’s another lesson that took me way too long to learn. It turns out that you do tend to get what you pay for, the cheaper stuff is just that. I haven’t tried ColorFabb, though I’ve heard good things. I use Verbatim PLA, and I buy it on Amazon. The stuff is really really good. The difference between it and something like eSun is night and day. It’s also twice as much for a 1kg spool. I’ve found the same for ABS and HIPS. You still have to do your research, but in general I’ve found the ‘higher end’ filaments are worth their weight in plastic.
-James
on Make magazine’s negative space test (found here).
