Don’t do what ive done before and ruin two circuit boards in a row. I say that because a short circuit shouldn’t ruin anything. A short circuit is a result not a cause of the problem.
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Is there a specific place I can get all these parts? Hopefully Amazon?
Wow. I’ll look into it. I’ll definitely upgrade the hotend to a E3d. How much do you think the renovation will take if I just use a regular controller board ($)? I don’t need the silent motor option, and I have a raspberry pi with octoprint for the wifi.
Ok great sales pitch I think you may have missed some points in this thread. The OP has a second machine But he is looking to renovate this printer not build a new one My prusa has been a good stable machine for almost 5 years But you make some good points a rigid frame is important so now is a good time to go through and tighten everything and make sure everything is true and square I agree the e3d is a great upgrade get your machine up and moving again First your extruder / hot end worked before so you can use it to calibrate your new control board and stuff while you print your new carriage for the e3d if you need I would recommend a auto leveling up grade for sure it was the single best upgrade I made to my machine it went from failing 50% of the time and constantly leveling the bed to just pop in the and card and print. The auto leveling setup on the carriage I posted uses a touch probe which lets you use and build surface you like, where a inductive sensor needs a aluminium or copper or steal bed. I use glass on mine. My second printer has a steal bed with a inductive sensor on a boxed wood i3 frame with one piece printed ends and I would say its probably more rigid than any plate style prusa i3. But my j head and touch probe on my prusa just work With a little aquanet on the glass I can print pla with a bed temp of 60c and get a glass transparent and smooth base
If you get a i3 frame you will need new smooth rods as well at least 2 of them will be 2 short
Yeah. I don’t think I have the budget. I’ll just get mine up.and running with new extruders and a board. Then work up from there.
I think you misunderstand how crap he3d products are…sure a tightened frame may help, but if your going to rebuild a printer then do it right and do it once… sticking with a poor frame that needs retightening and resquaring once a week isnt really worth the time…as for sales…meh, i just reccomend parts that i have personally used and know do a great job, i dont make a cent from reccomending anything and Im sure there are others that can do the job, but im not in a place to reccomend them.
There are a few other great printable upgrades like wobble isolators bearing holders for the bottom of z rods one piece motor mount and top frame parts I will this evening compile a list of thingiverse links for you that I would recommend
Ok fair enough all prusa printers suffer from loosening up that’s were a little penetrating thread locker and a few extra nuts are for I am sure that any prusa I1/I2 style would be crap to you it is a 6 year old design how ever your printer the i3 was the evolution of this design and has a few flaws too I am sure as most machines do Glad you enjoy it
