Huh. Hard to give advice on this one because so far Hatchbox wood is weirdly the easiest filament to print with that I’ve used. I say weirdly because I would have guessed it to be a pain. You know wood fill and all. I haven’t tried Makerware with it though.
I tried all the temperatures from 180 to 230 because I wanted to see if I could get color variation based on heat (that didn’t work BTW, it all came out the same color) and it extruded nice and smooth all the way and with good interlayer adhesion. And with both the stock nozzles and the Micro-Swiss all metal hotend too.
Regular old PLA is notorious for the heat creep problem that you are talking about. The PLA has a crystalline structure that transmits heat up the incoming filament. If you get melt too high in the extruder it’ll make a plug and get stuck on the next retraction. That’s why the suggestion to print faster because the filament also acts as coolant (the cool filament coming in from the reel helps cool the cold end). But I didn’t notice this with the Hatchbox, it seems weirdly flexible and not as rigid as normal PLA.
You’ll want to make sure your extruder fan is blowing and the heatsink it is blowing on is touching the cooling bar. And then print cooler. I mostly print this at 40mm/sec at 180C.
Perhaps you’ve got a charred PTFE tube or one that has been pinched into a smaller interior diameter so you’re actually getting a cold jam due to the rougher/fatter filament than you’ve used in the past?