I switched to a glass bed early on and level when preheated. Once the leveling is set I generally don’t do it again for a few months or unless I change my set-up. While leveling though, keep in mind that adjusting one screw affects the level at other points on the bed. So just because you get the gap set at one spot, doesn’t mean it will stay when turning one of the others. This is especially true for large set-up changes or differences. So I normally run my leveling routine three times in a row to ensure it’s perfect, then I forget about it.
Hi Everyone, thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. I’m certain this thread will be useful for many beginners. To summarize the top 2 recommendations:
1. Bed leveling should be performed under printing conditions, this is to say a heated bed and heated nozzle. This is important because under heat the gap between bed and nozzle is reduced, (as everything has expanded under heat), so if you level a cold bed, the gap will be different when printing. Use a standard sheet of printing paper (20lbs) as not to melt the provided plastic bed leveling sheet under nozzle heat.
2. To hold the bed level adjustments in place under printing vibrations, its best to replace the bed leveling nuts with Nylock Wing nuts, the nylon locking nut will ensure your settings don’t change.
There have been many other suggestions, but I felt these 2 were the most popular and a great starting point to resolve frequent bed leveling.
My flashforge gets leveled daily as well. I have gone several prints at a time without leveling, but just like you I need to do it again after a long print. No, leveling your bed is not a one time deal, its a necessary part of making sure your print goes well. Usually when I level it though, its not far off, and half the time its still perfect. Leveling the bed takes me about 40 seconds, and it makes me feel better knowing the bed is perfectly level, even if I didnt have to adjust anything.
I use a raft on every print and haven’t had to level mine in 3 months, if u are having to level that often u probably should change the nuts that are on it.
I level every dozen prints or so, or anytime I see issues. I run 4 flash forge creator pro’s full time. I always level after clearing/swapping a nozzle or switching filament. Typically, I find that level stays for quite a long time.
Hi @Ernie_Prescott I’ve only had to level the bed when I’ve changed it; in two months of owning a FF Pro I’ve not seen the bed “drift” from its original calibration. It’s interesting to read that some people are having to level frequently while others not at all, I wonder if there’s a difference in the model version; I know the FF Pro has gone through at least one change of build…
Its possible that there are variations in the quality and fitting of the leveling screws and nuts, if they are loose they would result in frequent drift.
I do mass production of parts as a business so I use glass plate as my build plate, and that is the reason I have to level everytime I change to another glass build plate after a print. Not all my glass has the same thickness, there are variations to it, no matter how small, it can make a difference. Anyway, it only takes me 3 minutes max to re level, so its no big deal, and it is worth the effort if your mass producing parts like me.
If you are printing with the same filament, over and over, you should not have to relevel. If you are switching filaments alot, then you have to relevel. Filament varies in width.
If you level really close to the bed, so the first layer smooshes, you will need to relevel less.
If you print at .1mm, you will need to level more often than at .3mm, as .1mm is more prone to issues when your bed unlevels slightly.
Tighten your bed nuts firmly, not too loose, but not too tight.
I just bought a use FFCP 2016 and I have had a DaVinci Pro Jr for about a year now. I am having so many problems with getting the filament sticking to the glass bed. I have tried everything? Im lost use different slicers filament I cant even get pla to stick. I’m Lost