Flash forge Finder - Warping

Hende · 2016-08-16T18:35:34.000Z

So i bought my self a flashforge finder about 5 days ago and its been amazing!

However, I have one issue, every so often some of my prints will come out with warping on the corners.

Now i have looked on the internet for solutions however, some people say to get a heated bed others say to use tape or even glue.

Anyone got any ideas?

kentcaldwell · 2016-08-16T21:40:38.000Z

Hi Hende, try a heated bed of at least 50C to start, with Kapton tape. Others have posted about this, so search the talk section for other recommendations as well (especially involving bed adhesion.)

Cheers,

-Kent

Mindi_Jo_Lovell · 2016-08-16T21:55:35.000Z

If you are using pla I like to use blue painters tape. It helps it stick well to the cold bed. What temperature and color filament are you using?

thejojk · 2016-08-16T22:30:18.000Z

Hi, The solution is One of This two or both:

1. Calibrate the level, don’t just trust the auto leveling.

2. Take 1 part glue for wood and 4 part water. Mix and distribut with a pencil and let it dry out.

I have had lots of problem like this, tried glue and everything. But since leveling I don’t even need the glue

imaginations · 2016-08-17T03:53:37.000Z

I also have Flash forge Finder and heated bed is not an option for it so you have to stick with either Blue Tape or add a raft in each print. I personally use Raft for each prints due to 2 reasons, first it prevents warping (almost 98% of my prints are successful, one 1 or 2 prints face warping). and secondly I get smooth surface underneath my prints. So overall spending a little extra filament for rafts or brims will help you a lot.

Rafts get remove easily but sometime it doesn’t so I use X-Acto Knife to remove the raft and smooth out the items through sanding.

Hende · 2016-08-18T15:53:02.000Z

Thanks for the reply, yes i just had a go with normal masking tape and it worked perfectly! and was even easier to remove from the bed. I was using rafts anyway but the masking tape does the job

Hende · 2016-08-18T15:54:06.000Z

thanks for your reply, since i have solved the problem (for now) but how do you go around leveling your extruder? ive heard some people talk about using a card but im not too sure

Hende · 2016-08-18T15:54:38.000Z

Yea masking tape is working for me! Im just using clear filament (what t came with) and 220 C

thejojk · 2016-08-19T05:27:24.000Z

The added height from the tape probably helps solving the issue

thejojk · 2016-08-19T05:43:45.000Z

I first level the print bed with the build in wizard. Then I print a big rectangle (120x120mm) 1 perimeter, 0.1 layers, 3-5 layer height. While printing check each layer sticking and looks the same in thickness. When ready loosen the printe and measure the height around each corner (remember the direction on the print compared the to the print bed). It should be 0.3 - 0.5 depending on how many layers. Then screw the bed level screws to correct the print height. Very very smal steps.

This worked for me. Took some time but now prints without glue/tape. Since the Finder don’t need calibration that often I find this ok.

Coopercary · 2016-08-19T15:45:04.000Z

Hi Hende,

I have a FF Dreamer and to avoid warping, I use glue on the printbed when printing with PLA. I also turn off printbed heating (anywhere from 0 to 20 deg C) to keep glue from drying out before the print begins.

The glue is from 3d systems, I had it because I also own a Cube 2nd generation (really old) printer from them. It is pretty strong gel glue that is clear. Like a glue dabber that someone might use for crafts but the glue is much stronger.

Experiment with other glues and let me know how you go!

Subspace3 · 2016-08-22T21:31:44.000Z

I’ve put 3m painters tape on the original bed and it just lifts up and still get slight warping. Did you remove the blue part covering the glass of the bed then put the tape down, or put the tape directly on top of the blue bed?

Mindi_Jo_Lovell · 2016-08-22T21:39:29.000Z

I just put the blue tape on top of the tape that came on it. You can try heating the bed up to about 45, or try turning down the fan.

thejojk · 2016-08-23T05:18:40.000Z

I have The same printer and Love it. Had same problem before I did a bed leveling. Use the built in system to do a calibration. After that make print a square line 120x120mm 0.2 layer. If that gets even, try 0.1layer to 0.5 mm. Measure around the corners with calipers to check it’s 0.5. Otherwise try adjust very fine manually.

The finder can’t have a heated bed. And with PLA there is no need with proper bed leveling.

Subspace3 · 2016-08-23T17:37:46.000Z

The finder has no heated bed. Or at least mine doesn’t.

Mindi_Jo_Lovell · 2016-08-23T18:28:40.000Z

I would try turning down the fan, or I have heard some people use an epoxy glue, you could research that but I haven’t tried it before

Abhishek_Dixit · 2017-02-21T03:00:22.000Z

There is one awesome solution to solve the warping issue in any printer. For FF Finder, take out the build plate and invert it to expose the glass side. Put carpenter’s tape on it. Print a raft on top of it. Pause the printing. Put some quick glue on the corners of your print. Let it dry. Once it dries corners will adhere to the tape. Tape is already adhered to the smooth glass bottom. Now resume to print. It should print nicely. I tried and got 100 % results with 4 big prints of around 13cm X 13cm dimension.

chrshe · 2018-09-06T01:03:04.014Z

I did almost what Abhishek suggested…I flipped the glass over and covered it with blue painters tape. I elected to try without using the glue and have had no issues so far. Just need to remember to change the tape once every couple of builds.

lithos_g · 2018-09-10T12:56:41.698Z

I use for PLA on my Creality Ender-3:

Hair Lac on the glass bed
Good manual calibration
70°C Heated Bed
215°C on extruder