Hi Hende, try a heated bed of at least 50C to start, with Kapton tape. Others have posted about this, so search the talk section for other recommendations as well (especially involving bed adhesion.)
I also have Flash forge Finder and heated bed is not an option for it so you have to stick with either Blue Tape or add a raft in each print. I personally use Raft for each prints due to 2 reasons, first it prevents warping (almost 98% of my prints are successful, one 1 or 2 prints face warping). and secondly I get smooth surface underneath my prints. So overall spending a little extra filament for rafts or brims will help you a lot.
Rafts get remove easily but sometime it doesn’t so I use X-Acto Knife to remove the raft and smooth out the items through sanding.
Thanks for the reply, yes i just had a go with normal masking tape and it worked perfectly! and was even easier to remove from the bed. I was using rafts anyway but the masking tape does the job
thanks for your reply, since i have solved the problem (for now) but how do you go around leveling your extruder? ive heard some people talk about using a card but im not too sure
There is one awesome solution to solve the warping issue in any printer. For FF Finder, take out the build plate and invert it to expose the glass side. Put carpenter’s tape on it. Print a raft on top of it. Pause the printing. Put some quick glue on the corners of your print. Let it dry. Once it dries corners will adhere to the tape. Tape is already adhered to the smooth glass bottom. Now resume to print. It should print nicely. I tried and got 100 % results with 4 big prints of around 13cm X 13cm dimension.
I did almost what Abhishek suggested…I flipped the glass over and covered it with blue painters tape. I elected to try without using the glue and have had no issues so far. Just need to remember to change the tape once every couple of builds.