21

If you got a spool of flex material ordered, sure give it a go. Won’t hurt. might work, its used for stuff like this alot.

22

I havent been able to find Ninjaflex around here,

In Simplify3D i am using these settings for Filaflex:

230°C nozzle temp
20mm/s print speed, don’t slow down your outside shells and stuff,keep printing at the same low speeds consistently.

First layer i printed at 50%, so really slow.

0,2mm layer height

up the extrusion rate by 15%
35% infill (solid layer over infill needs an extra top layer or two to look good - I am using 5 top layers)

cut back a bit on retraction or even try no retraction at all (i got away with 1mm at 20mm/s)

I’m using on Scotch blue painters tape as ppl were saying it can be imposible to peel off of Buildtak

Good luck & let me know how you fare

23

Well i mean out of either the nylon or the carbon fiber HTPLA, because i saw this design on thingiverse and the guy had a point, the astrosyn ones are made of aluminum so they are hard which is what makes them work and i can print the o-ring in the middle with the flex filament. Do you think the nylon or carbon fiber HTPLA would last in there and which one would you choose?

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25

I have not tried any HTPLA nor Nylons so far. Can’t help you with that. Sorry :frowning:

26

If you were to try one, which one would you do? I’m thinking the HTPLA because it’s rigid while the nylon is bendable

27

Also does your printer vibrate? Mine does at 45-60+ mm/sec with 150mm/s travel speed and i get vibration/ringing lines on cylindrical prints for some reason, i print at 206-210 with hatchbox

28

I don’t know enough about these materials to even make a guess.
How about: Try to find a vendor that sells you a sample and try both?

29

Yeah, it vibrates. Sometimes things start to resonate on top and it shakes even worse. It’s not the stiffest plattform on the planet and frankly, I think the default speeds are too high. But then again i never bothered to slow it down either, i am quite content with the results it produces.

Cleaning and a bit of sewing machine oil on the x & y axis rods helps make the head move more smoothly, at least in my opinion that should cut back on the vibrating a bit.

30

I bought both :slight_smile: and i do oil my axis i’m at 30mm/sec now and 10mm/s on Z-axis which seems to help some but still vibrating a little. I’m going to see if the dampers i make work. I’ll try with Carbon Fiber HTPLA first

31

Why does this keep happening? I went from 45 mm/sec to 30 and i’ve gotten this 3 times now on 3d benchy boat model

image_177.jpg
image_177.jpg2448×3264 1.89 MB

32

I guess it was because it was printing too slow and clogged. i went up to 60mm/s and prints are working so far

33

I have used other filaments and have NOT had a problem.

34

too late but here is my solution with a headed plate :wink:

35

You were able to print fila flex and wood filament without any modifications except the settings? no upgraded nozzle or anything?

36

Original 0,4mm brass nozzle that came with the printer. No modifications at that time.

There are mods out there to make printing with flex stuff easier. And for woodfill filament a slightly bigger nozzle like 0.5mm helps as well… But back then I was doing it on a stock configuration playing with settings only. Slowly and evenly and avoid retractions.

37

Thats really cool, i thought you had top have a special extruder and nozzle for flex and wood filament. but you can get a nozzle to use different stuff to? like the protopasta filament?

38

There’s all sorts of different nozzles available for the Dremel 3D20, since it uses a pretty common hotend (MK10 if i recall correctly)… in different sizes and materials. If you mean Protopastas Carbon Fiber filament, a hardened steel or at least plated nozzle would be good, yes. And for woodfill stuff, a 0,5mm nozzle or even a bit bigger helps to avoid clogging.

39

Thanks for you help, im getting one in a week.

40

Do you use simplify3d?