Different Filament For Makerbot 5th get Extruder +

thedistance · 2016-09-05T14:36:42.000Z

Hello,

I need help with fine tuning different filament types for my Makertbot.I have the following PLA Filaments:

Makerbot

Hatchbox

Inland

Plush Plastic

3D Solutech

I use the High Print Setting when Im using Makerbot filament and it comes out perfect 99% of the time. The issue is the cost of this filament…The other filaments are a fraction of the cost of the Makerbot filament. However, regardless of what settings and fine tweaking I use for the filaments that I listed there is ALWAYS an issue. They just don’t look good at all. Does anyone have any luck with the filaments that I listed, and if so can you please share your specs to get them to turn out just as good as the Makerbot filament? I would appreciate any and all help with this. Thank you in advance.

shahramrobotics · 2016-09-05T22:48:54.000Z

What’s the issue? can you post some pics so I can help you out. I have used many different brands, from $60/kg to $5/kg. Print quality totally depends on your hardware and settings, and remember that you should not compare your printer with another one with the same model, you need to find the best settings for each filament for your 5th gen. Small change in temp and feed rate totally changes your print quality. Most of cheap filaments have too much additives and are not as glossy as Makerbot PLA. And some filaments are so dry that you need to lubricate your extruder with olive oil to reduce friction.

Feenik · 2016-09-06T00:52:38.000Z

I’ve had great luck with Hatchbox filament. Are you using the Makerware software? I switched to Simplify3D for the added control. What kind of troubles are you having? If you are having trouble getting your prints to stick try lowering your z offset to -14 that what i have it as and I get no lift just the occasional warp if a draft hits my makerbot. Also lowering your temp helps with Hatchbox filament.

Frantic · 2016-09-07T17:03:25.000Z

By default, the Makerbot software uses a filament diameter of 1.77- you may need to adjust that to 1.75 for other filaments. That assumes a bit about what problem you are having.

3dptshop · 2016-09-11T22:28:53.000Z

Since 2012 i been trying many type of filament the 1.75 mm ,1.77 mm are just 2 mm different but it don’t affect the printing process. most 3d printer use a universal nozzle inner diameter. The problem is the composition of the filament. Many companies use recycle material to make they filament, this companies could argue they aren’t!" when in reality they are". MakerBot filament PLA is made of a corn base material that’s why you will always get great prints. It doesn’t matter what 3d printer you put that filament, it could be the worst 3d printer and your prints will be great. I try many types of filaments the last 4 year. Some of the best to use even doe you have to tweak temperature setting are Color Fabb,Proto-pasta, eSun and course MakerBot. I use all this companies filament with great success. But remember the temperature is the most important tweak. Never tweak your extrusion speed, this cause many weak and ugly prints. Soon ill be posting some information about filament tweak and many other discussions on my website 3dprintertechshop.com thanks for your time!

thedistance · 2016-09-12T16:49:35.000Z

The pikachu with the “fringes” was printed with the following specs:

PLA HatchBox

Temp 185

Filament Diameter: 1.75mm

Retraction Distance: 0.2mm

Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s

Restart Speed: 30mm/s

The rest of the prints including the other pikachu were printed with the following specs:

PLA MakeBot

Temp 215

Filament Diameter: 1.77mm

Retraction Distance: 0.5mm

Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s

Restart Speed: 30mm/s

I am now having the following issues with those:

You can see the layers in the TRex. It looked amazing at fist but as it was getting closer to completion you can CLEARLY see the separation on the top piece toward the teeth. What causes this? How do I fix it?

I am having the same issues with the orange cup. It looked solid at first. However, toward the end it really started to get spaced out. I looked online for ways to cover up the spacing and how to “clean up” PLA and the only thing I could find was giving it an 20 second Acetone bath…So i tried it with the Orange cup and now parts of it are white and it made the spacing a lot more pronounced. I dont want to reprint this but its looking like Ill have to.